UKC

People have different preferences re makes and models of climbing shoes.
But one question that I don't think has ever been asked on UKC is which rubber do you prefer for which rock type?

i.e Stealth Onyxx on grit compared to C2 on slate.

I know this is a very subjective question that most won't be interested in, but if anyone chooses different shoes for their rubbers performance on different rock types it would be very interesting to me.

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:
I think stealth is the best for grit, i like onyx when its very very cold and c4 when its warmer

In reply to krank:

C4, yes my original post should have been that and not C2.

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:

I can't remember exactly what rubber it is, but I find that Boreal Spiders stick really well to polished limestone (but not much else). It's quite a smooth feeling rubber compared to Stealth stuff but just seems to work.

I know this will be an unpopular opinion though as everyone slates boreal rubber.

I think the best rubber I ever had for grit was on some Scarpa slippers. They just seemed to stick to anything. I had been using C4 before that. Nothing else has ever come close.

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: I'd say that Stealth Onyx was best on the grit, but the Scarpa rubber is great on the lime.

Andy F

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:
Rubber suitability often seems to me about route style as well as rock type, I like the Evolv rubber for smeary slabs but find a firmer rubber that holds its shape such as La Sportiva is better for routes that require more edging on small holds. Obviously certain rock types tend to lend themselves to particular route styles, but there are plenty of exceptions to the norm.

In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:

With respect to performance on different rock types, I suspect the stiffness of the boot is at least as much a factor as the stickiness of the wubba?

Chris

In reply to Chris Craggs:

To a degree, but the white Anasazi has the C4 rubber because it is supposed to perform better on small edges than the slightly softer Onyxx. Not that most of us would notice!