UKC

Following a recent thread about abseiling accidents there was some debate about this.
Personally, if abseiling on a UK crag, the only thing I wouldn`t back up is a fckng big tree that didn`t move when pushed.
The reasons are firstly that abseiling is virtually the only time that the belays are guaranteed to be loaded, secondly it reduces the forces on the anchors if equalised, thirdly I am a coward and don`t see the point in not spending a couple more minutes setting stuff up.
No I don`t wear 2 pairs of trousers etc.

In reply to thepeaks:
The monument atop Birchen is pretty solid.

In reply to thepeaks:

Does a JCB count? ;O)

In reply to blanchie14c: ... or the monument at Birchen!

In reply to thepeaks:


The rule of 9 -
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=401244&v=1#x5762198
my post at 20.49. Common sense req as its only a guide, you wouldn't equalise 3 trees for example but for rock anchors I find it works well.

In reply to blanchie14c:
1) piss poor 'head' protection only, wouldn't hold a mouse, in fact the quickdraw clipped to it is straining it!
2) not death but not good either, should be okay if loaded from a defined direction.
3) again, not the best but okay, cam in a flared crack say, sideways nut not making full contact
4) pretty bomber hex or big nut, those cracks that seem made for a nut, place and forget, you know deep down its solid
5) number 11 hex or similar in a placement that its impossible to lift from, threaded between huge blocks etc
Trees are solid and don't need grading but saplings are rather ropey!
hope it helps

In reply to thepeaks: One that survive a bomb blast.

In reply to wayno265: What megatonnage force?

In reply to thepeaks: climbing safe aint cowerdly, climing unsafe for hero points, is for t**t*. Why take the chance that 20 ton rock thread aint finely balenced. ie a rocking stone. a minute of your time (pumped recovery) to live to climb again.

In reply to blanchie14c: You missed a cat. between 3 & 4. Well placed cam or medium nut.

In reply to thepeaks:

3, and that's definitive.

In reply to thepeaks:

So what would I regard as a bombproof anchor?

One that's more than strong/reliable enough for the job it's doing and meets with my approval without necessarily needing to be discussed/approved/attacked ad nauseam through an infinite number of new topics and posts on UKC...

In reply to thepeaks:

Bomber: a tree, a big boulder, a solid chockstone, a bomber nut, a bomber cam, a concrete fencepost, a wooden fencepost, a angle-iron stake, park bench, car.

Less than bomber (I have used all of the above and all of these too): two rock ones (hanging stance!), elderberry shrubs, gorse bush roots, a cairn, rabbit burrow thread, dry-stone wall thread, tied off grass tufts, bum in a hollow.

Chris

In reply to petestack: UKC discussion forums you mean. Contribution isn`t mandatory.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

A large punter?

In reply to Bulls Crack:

You jest - I have asked people to stand on the rope when the belay has been naff one more than one occasion!


Chris

In reply to thepeaks:

And actually thought of saying in case someone had to start splitting hairs when it's still on UKC with the Forums being part of UKC! But, yes, I know what I meant and you know what I meant, so why am I bothering to reply?

In reply to petestack: "so why am I bothering to reply? "

Taking part in a discussion on a discussion forum?

In reply to thepeaks:
Palm trees seem to do pretty well in nuclear explosions (according to hollywood)

In reply to Col Allott: would they pass wayno 365s 3 megatonne test?

In reply to thepeaks: A nice big juicy BOLT!

In reply to thepeaks:

For abbing:

>4" living tree
>3" tree root thread
>2" smooth stone thread showing no cracks (not a boulder pinch)
Partially buried immobile boulder with no sharp edges or pinches
Good un-cracked spike, same caveats as for boulder
Fence (condition and construction dependant)
Various variations on those

Also acceptable but ideally backed up to begin with at least:
Mate sat in a significant hollow
Good stake
Smaller threads/spikes (still no sharps)
Some scrawnier plants
Good nut/hex/cam
Good glue-in
Good non-spinning stainless bolt

jk

In reply to thepeaks: this is a bomb-proof anchor http://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/1160737 (unless it's the Ark the German's got in WW2)

In reply to thepeaks:

The coffin rule:

If the block you're slinging isn't at least as big as a coffin, you might end up in one


Ok, that's not definitive, but I like it.

Otherwise, a mature tree, decent thread between large touching blocks, solid spike, good size 11 hex or rock 4 (rock 4 is always bomber)

In reply to blanchie14c:
Where do these come in your list?

A skyhook over a fairly good flake (with and without gaffer tape)

A sheep

A fat mate on a good ledge

Positive mental attitude

A tent peg in thin turfy soil

?

In reply to Reach>Talent: my wife's neck lol

In reply to Reach>Talent:

how about a walking pole bashed 3" into turf? clove hitch your shoe lace around the bottom and it's safe as houses...

In reply to jezzah:


I'm not going anywhere near your house!