In reply to jon:
> (In reply to airbournegrapefruit)
>
> Maybe, but his last (in fact, his only) recorded climbs are two V Diffs. This doesn't sit well against an article written by a well known internationally qualified mountain guide.
Jon, I thought you were being a little tongue in cheek when you called James an old fasioned troll, but then I see this? Why do people feel compelled to go looking up people's log books when they disagree with them and then, finding their 'opponent' is a beginner climber, use this information to rubbish their opinion on a public forum?
You might say that experience is relevant to a debate on rope techniques, but it's not really. If someone's right, then having little experience doesn't make them wrong.
Your point about 3 being an arbitrary number is a good point. Why make it pesonal by pointing to someone's inexperience and ability (if it had been two E2s I'm guessing you wouldn't have been so quick to point the finger)as a reason for disregarding their opinion?
Regarding the article, I think the format is great - the combination of text, pictures and video has the potential to explain things in a very comprehensive manner. But like many others I would have liked to have seen more detail. Obviously you can never cover everything, but I particularly would have liked to see some pictures like the ones of the prussik loops showing how to tie an alpine butterfly, which, although you can use an overhand knot, is a fairly central part of the abseil set-up. It's also fairly specific to this function and not something you're likely to encounter otherwise, unlike the italian hitch which is also brushed over.