UKC

Hi, so I'm looking for some solid E3s ie not soft-touch but not bordering on E4!! also some tough E2s would be good. As I have done a few E3s but they have mostly been slabby(ish); comes the dervish, 4 pebble slab(debatable E3), and gagool direct. now since just returning from a sport climbing trip I have overcome my slight phobia of anything not a slab and am ready to tackle some more E3s. I am pretty keen to get over to the grochan to do SS special and slape direct stroll on and quasar look good but hard, im looking for E3 5c mainly as I felt comfortable onsighting pumpy 6b and 6b+ and im pretty sure E3 6a is going to end up ahrder than that!

any sincere recommendation for routes without stars greatly appreciated as I can find the classics with the guide-book it would be nice to experiment on not so classic lines!

In reply to dunkymonkey17:

Memory Lane and Foil (err, sorry, they have stars).

In reply to Coel Hellier: cool ye man pretty ken for these especially memory lane!! though migh leave cromlech routes to mid-week as i imagine it is heaving on sunny sundays! any suggestions appreciated!

In reply to dunkymonkey17:

The crux of Stairway to Heaven is slabby and used to be E2 so prob easy for the grade. The only problem is you may prefer to be n the sunny side this weekend in which case I'd suggest Eggmeat Arete

In reply to dunkymonkey17:

Erosion Groove direct is a good E2, 1st pitch a typical Whillans thuggery HVS with loads of protection, 2nd pitch techo E2 (keep your head together)

Definitely recommend that one. Oh and something called Left Wall at E2 !

In reply to chris fox: never heard of it.

In reply to dunkymonkey17:

You could try picking the non-starred E3's from the guidebook and check the graded list...if they're in....or even maybe roll up and judge for yourself!
You wan to experiment after all.

In reply to dunkymonkey17:

Orpheus E2 5b `Craig Ddu`, take some cams !

Yellow Wall E2 5b `Craig Ddu`, nice.

Spectrum E2 5c `Clogwyn y Grochan`, bold first pitch !

Slape Direct E2 5c `Clogwyn y Grochan`, tricky crux but well protected.

The Thing E2 5c `Dinas Cromlech`, not often done, bit of a fight !

Foil E3 6a `Dinas Cromlech`, classic with bomproof gear.

Black Shadow E3 5c `Dinas Mot`, ok for the grade.

Stairway to Heaven E3 5c `Dinas Mot`, bold pitch 2 !

Ten Degrees North E2 5b `Dinas Mot`, best route of it`s grade in the pass.

Hornets Attack Victor Mature E2 5c `Dinas Mot`, tricky !


Loads more, have fun,

mills.

In reply to dunkymonkey17:
I liked Quasar, seem to recall gear very good on hard bit, not so great on easier lower section IIRC. Did I hear Void's upgraded to E4? Was E3 when I did it and mention because without a doubt best route of that grade I have ever done, period. Phenomenal. Good gear and not far to get to if you have a car.

In reply to mrjonathanr:
Did I hear Void's upgraded to E4? Was E3 when I did it and mention because without a doubt best route of that grade I have ever done, period.

Don't want to be churlish, and I wouldn't disagee with you about Void but he was asking for recommended E3's in the Llanberis Pass. Could I put in a vote for Lubyanka?

In reply to Pekkie:

An obvious one but going on the original request Left Wall is solid E2, and excellent.

In reply to dunkymonkey17:

Can't forget Lubyanka, E3 up on Cyrn las, good few pitches, a bit more mountain crag exposure than the single pitch routes. Generally quite quiet up there away from the crowds. You get an X rock tick too if you're into that.
jb.

In reply to Pekkie:



Hi Pete, my point was that the best E3 I've ever done might be unnecessarily off the radar. If it's only the Pass he's interested in, then of course my comment's irrelevant. Lubyanka's on my ticklist BTW. Looks awesome.

In reply to dunkymonkey17: cool cheers guys been perusing the guide and a route above the wasted called punk puffins something looks awesome so ill prob have a crack at that!

In reply to dunkymonkey17: Grond, E2, would be just you thing, Dunc.

Try Stroll On, E3 - but make sure you grow a 'tache first, or you'll get crushed.

Also, you'll be surprised: There will be more people in IKEA than on Memory Lane today!

In reply to DJonsight: haha the grond makes me feel ill!!! but i migt give it a crack at some point!!! hoe did you fare on it???

hmmm ye looked at stroll on today after i did SS Special looks hard but good!! haha i have been thinking of growing a mexican tash actually!!!

hmmm you reckon? your probably right seemed most people in the pass today climbed no hard than VS 1 party did stroll on, another did hangover and another did brant direct! defo keen for some cromlech crushing!

In reply to dunkymonkey17: Congrats on SS. BTW, I'm at work, otherwise I would be climbing.