UKC

Hi

The low-level traverse of the East side of the Gellet block at Limekilns / Charlestown has seen increasing levels action in the last year or two. It's a total crimp-fest! Does anyone claim FA for it either L-R or R-L and does anyone want to suggest a grade?

It's been a personal project of mine for a while, though I have seen others complete it.

M

In reply to mhowie:
Since no one has answered - does anyone know anywhere else I should post this?

I have taken a look at the SMC New Climbs PDFs and also ScottishClimbs.com, but can't find anywhere else.

M

In reply to mhowie:

Try asking Kev Howett at the MCoS

In reply to mhowie:

this might be a good place: http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Talk:Limekilns

In reply to es:
Thanks es.

bump
There must be some UKC member who knows about this surely?

In reply to mhowie:

Rocco knows

youtube.com/watch?v=hQ2XnY2412U&

In reply to mhowie:

If you reckon you could have a reasonable guess at the grade you could add it to the logbooks on here and let people vote?

In reply to mhowie:

I don't know what traverse this is, but I did a full low traverse of the big block a couple of years ago from left to right starting at the front...

Does it include that?

In reply to Robbie_Phillips:
Hmmm I reckon your traverse includes the one I am talking about which is just the east side.

Nicely done though!

In reply to mhowie:

I had a shot today, but didn't manage it in a oner. It must be quite popular because it is polished and chalked up. I'm not very confident at grading, but I'd guess something like UK tech 6a ±1 ...

In reply to mhowie:

When I lived at Inverkeithing used to go to the blocks a lot. Used to see Kenny Spence down there traversing around the Gellet block as training. That was in the mid eighties.

In reply to george mc: Someone (the obvious Earl's minions) has cut a young tree down it's middle so that it represents a spear jutting out of the ground beneath The Struggler at Limekilns. Noticed it as I abb'd back down the route, would prob kill someone if they fell direct on it, what kind of person does that (will post a pic when I get my damn'd phone internet thing workin)?

In reply to simon_D: If you're sure it's deliberate it might be worth mentioning that to the MCofS

In reply to dan bailey: aye, seems a bit severe for pruning! Makes me wonder why a. people want to kill trees?, and b. why people want to kill climbers (at such a peaceful and unique piece of limestone)?

In reply to simon_D: would it be worth taking a small saw up next time to get rid then?

In reply to simon_D:

Doesn't sound much like the work of the estate tbh, more likely just some of the local kids.

I would strongly recommend not taking a saw to it given the recent problems with the estate - see http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=358736

We really want to do everything we can to work with the estate and not against it. Every negative thing we do here may well have long-lasting effects given the reactionary nature of the land owner. Something like cutting down / pruning a tree is definitely illegal and may be used to back up any formal action they make in the future.

In reply to mhowie: I'm aware of the access issues there, do you have alternative ideas, can you see the estate wardens coming and cutting it down for our safety?

fairly certain, assuming its small ( if its on of the ~2" trunks i'm thinking of) that it could be removed inconspicuously.

In reply to jamface: Two possibilities - contact the factors, or contact MCofS as someone else suggested.

The factors have an office in Charlestown itself - to the left of the Elgin hotel, opposite the village green. They are quite hands-on and would probably be employed by the estate to do the work if Lord Elgin were to get ask for it.

The last round of access problems were solved partly through MCofS. Whilst this isn't an access problem in itself it might be worth getting their advice on what to do: hebe@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk

In reply to mhowie: I've uploaded a pic into the 'landscape' section so you can see the damage and make your own judgements. I can go and sort it with a hack-saw or leave it for the estate team? Let me know...

In reply to simon_D:
Sorry, I can't see it. Try again? I would be happy to take a visit to the factors myself if need be - I am local anyway, I just need to find the time to get there!

In reply to mhowie: Hey, they seem to have not allowed the pic to be shown here so if you are interested have a look round by the Sentinel when you can. I guess it could be kids but it's such a young tree and the cut looks like that made with a tool. Guess I'm just getting old and crabby about folk cutting trees down next to crags! (hope they don't cut down the tree behind velvet glove, it's v handy when you fall and need a push back on!). Ta

In reply to mhowie:

Back to the original post, I did the traverse for the first time this evening. I did the whole block so was already a little pumped when I started the east face, but I'd guess about font 6a/+? And 6b/+ for the whole block, with the one rule of not resting on the ground-level ledges on the south face. Wouldn't say I'm a great judge of endurance-problem grades though.

In reply to simon_D:
I took a look at the stump this afternoon - wow it's very pointy indeed! Someone was climbing above it and the risk is pretty obvious. I have taken a few pictures for the record.

I think the next thing is that I should approach the estate office and see what they have to say.

In reply to mhowie:

The stump is well clear of the base of the crag. You'd have to fling yourself out pretty far as well as rip your gear to hit it. That said it might as well be removed.

In reply to mhowie: Now this post defo took me back. We were trying this in 2007. Only one of our party managed it. I have Pictures of us doing on it. Shall dig them out and pop them up. What way did you go as i went L-R all the time.

Jay

In reply to jaybob: Ha. I've not completed it .. yet .. just need to link the moves now. I have been going L-R, but my pal managed both L-R and R-L!

It's just so solid it ought to be listed. Would love to see the pictures.

In reply to mhowie:

I've added the traverse and a couple of other bouldery things to the database here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1319

The grades are just my own guesses, I'm sure others will disagree.

In reply to mhowie: Managed a cheeky wee eliminate on this the night. Gellet block east face from right to left, eliminating the break for the feet, and finishing up the left arete (via a good diagonal edge and a longish reach) to the first platform. Makes it a bit trickier, crux is still in the same place though, perhaps font 6b-6c+, perhaps not.

In reply to A.Russell: Where do the hands go? Same break as before, or higher?