UKC

Not sure if this the right place but people seem to be posting here a lot for injuries so I'll go ahead.

I've only be climbing about 6 months or so and i recently purchased a fingerboard, after some excitement of getting it fitted i started out on it without any exercise at all.

It was only after about 15-20 minutes or so, i was holding on the smallest crimp when i felt the tendon in my arm twinge slightly.

If you look at the palm of your hand, in my case my right hand, you can see it sticking out quite clearly. It wasn't painful as such but it was almost like an electric shock or jolt of some sort..

Either way, it's never been the same since and it will happen if im crimping on holds, any ideas what i need to do?

I did rest it for approx 2 weeks, but recently it happened again. Any help much appreciated! Thanks

By this i mean just below your palm you have the tendon which leads up your arm

In reply to davedyer:
i had the electric shock thing, started in my finger then shot down my arm, but it happened on a pocket. My finger was screwed for 6 months, which meant no climbing, and was tweaky for the next 6 months. Its still a little tweeky on 2 finger pockets now, nearly 2 years later.
My advice is to not be pulling on the smallest holds after 15 minutes and buy lots of ice.

In reply to davedyer:

dave mc has some advice on this on his blog, might be worth a look..

In reply to davedyer:
You shouldn't do specific training like finger boards in your first year or so of training, especially if you are older and havn't done any similar training since you were younger. Your muscles respond well and get strong very fast but your tendons and other interconnecting tissue takes 12-18mths to catch up. It can lead to chronic injuries that are very hard to get over. I've trained in one thing or another since I was young including 7yrs in the Royal Marines but I've still picked up elbow issues from climbing too many days a week too early. I'm very careful to not push it too hard now until my body has got used to it.

In reply to Alan100:

dont suppose you have the link do you?

In reply to davedyer:
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com/search/label/Injuries

Sound's like it might be a pulley injury! As mentioned above - your finger flexor tendon's - which run across your palm to the end of each finger may not have had the time to adapt to the increased muscle strength.

Ligament strains will always be more susceptible to future injury. i would stay away from the finger board for a good while and practice at the wall on more open / jug type holds so you're not putting as much pressure on your finger pulley's.

Warming up (forearm stretches) Should make a big difference too. Take a look at the article above - it has some good evidence based advice.

Good Luck

In reply to davedyer: Same thing happened to me, for a good few months after every now and then I'd do a particular move and I would get a twinge and it would start hurting again. It stopped hurting more often and eventually went away after a few months.
I'd advise don't over do it and it will go away eventually. Frustrating though innit!

In reply to Lucaj: Tell me about it! Really annoying, strangest feeling cause it doesn't hurt, but it feels like it would hurt if it actually snapped..

In reply to Sib81: He said a twinge in his arm, not in his finger.

>Sound's like it might be a pulley injury! As mentioned above - your finger flexor tendon's - which run across your palm to the end of each finger may not have had the time to adapt to the increased muscle strength.

that's a bizarre mixed diagnosis, whether your flexor tendons are strong enough doesn't affect whether your pulleys are going to get injured, how strong your pulleys are does.