UKC

Afternoon UKC

I have just got in the materials for my home woodie but I need to source some interesting holds (not Holdz). I have a few standard ones and a few woodcuts to start with but I’m looking for more interesting holds that replicate real rock (as much as possible).

Looking here ( http://www.deadpointmag.com/reviews/view/climbing-hold-review ) the Americans have a huge range of hold suppliers, a lot of which don’t seem to ship here, or do it for an extortionate rate. The holds they have seem a lot more refined and interesting with a lot of effort going in to "copying" specific rock types. Where does everyone source their holds from, and can any one recommend some specifically good sets or manufacturers available in the UK.

Here is a few that have taken my eye in the states;
http://www.climbit.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=43 - So cool
http://www.e-grips.com/granite/hueco-pinch-jugs.html
http://www.climbit.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=10
http://www.climbit.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=15

In reply to Tom_Harding: Dream Holds? http://www.extreme-dream.com/dream-climbing-holds

In reply to Lemony: I've found dream holds already, pretty uninspiring looking holds although i thaught the dumby basalt ones looked really intresting. Not a patch on those sediment ones from e-grips

In reply to Tom_Harding:

http://www.rockworksclimbing.co.uk/Products/Bolt-on%20Holds%20%26%20Trainin... do naturally inspired holds. Can I just ask though, do you really want to emulate real rock or build a cost effective, skin/joint friendly training facility? The thing is, while they look great those big holds will have a maximum of 3 or 4 usable grips on them for the price of a whole set of 'dull' holds that you can move around at will.

jk

In reply to jkarran:


I have a load of "standard/boring" holdz already i'm after something interesting to mix things up. But yes i want somthing that goes someway to replicating real rock (as much as that is possible with plastic). The rockworksclimbing ones seem the same as every other hold we get in the UK. Same standard shapes with a few bumps cut in and they call it natural.

Is no one making/disributing holds to the same quality as ones like these ( http://www.climbit.com/store/pc/viewCategories.asp?idCategory=10 ) in the UK?

In reply to Tom_Harding:

can't think of names at mo but there's easy to find companies who give you a shipping address within the states if yo ureally want the ones you've seen. You provide the supplier with that address, and the company forwards the goods to you for a reasonable (from what I remember) charge.

Though tending to agree with the above you may be better with normal holds that you can move aroudn a lot.

In reply to Scarab9:

Thanks, adds alot to the cost though. Really is there no one making intresting holds in the UK....

I dont really get the point about them being less versatile, looking at most of them they would have as many angles (if not more) as any other hold. Heres a good example ( http://www.climbit.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=10&idproduct=225 )

In reply to Tom_Harding:


Those look like the sort of nasty combination pockets that would rapidly have you injured if you used them a lot. Great for an interesting once in a while route at a Gucci wall... not so good when they find their way into a third of the problems you set on your woody and you find yourself cranking on them over and over again.

Rockworks used to do a range of pebbly 'sandstone' holds. Looked good but were basically just an attractive looking hold at the expense of comfort. Seems they've dropped them, presumably because they didn't sell?

The Depot has a fair range of rock-like holds on their wall. Might be worth giving them a call to see where they're from. Again, personally I just find them a little uncomfortable, not what I go indoors for.

jk

In reply to Tom_Harding:
If you go to Horseshoe Quarry you'll find loads of holds scattered around on the ground underneath the crag =/

In reply to Lurkio: Why pick them off the ground, i might just head round a few crags angle-grinding the crux holds off things, any objections?

In reply to Lurkio:
Check out Core:
http://coreclimbing.co.uk/core-climbing-home-page-c-276.html

In reply to grhgrant: Just what i was looking for, thanks

In reply to Tom_Harding:
http://www.bleaustone.com/
http://www.ep-uk.com/store/browse/40

In reply to Tom_Harding:

the vast majority of Bleaustone and Core's range is based on "real rock" types, but in reality you will find that even most holds that are copies of real rock are actually not that different from most other climbing holds. The "heuco" holds that you linked to in yourt first post are just normal holds with a pretty "hueco style pattern" carved into the bit of the hold that you don't actually use. The granite edges that you linked to are just really basic big edges with a rougher finish and sharper profile so that you trash your skin quicker and crush your fingers more when you do dynamic moves to them. So basically all of the elements of real rock that you don'twant to replicate. Core are the best currently for making holds where the bit of the hold that you actually pull on copies the rock type, but the other thing to consider with a board is that for the biggest variety of climbing you want the most number of holds which will mean getting holds with a smaller footprint, which will exclude most real rock stlye holds. I route set for a living and can tell you that in reality real rock holds in of them selves don't offer you more variety, they just look prettier and cost more. The only companies I currently use are Core, Bleaustone and EP. King Kong, (French rock holds), are also good but a small range.

In reply to lx: Thanks Ix, intresting. All the walls i have climbed at have the old fashioned (Holdz) standard shapes so i havent had a try on any new-skool holds, they jsut seems like a logical progression.

Thanks for the advice, i think i will just stock up on some more standard ones and when im feeling flush get a few odds and ends from and intresting supplier.

In reply to Tom_Harding:

Hi Tom, Dave Mac uses dream holds on his board and seems to like them
http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/search/label/home%20training
I know he did a review as well but I cant find it.
There are also granite holds now & I highly recommend the 'grit' ones!

Enjoy

In reply to Tom_Harding:

Old fashioned? the new stuff only came out last year, sounds like you need to get onto your local wall and ask them to update it a little.

you could pop along to a centre with a massive range of holds and try out shed loads....

vimeo.com/11873993 << watch out for Mikes jedi screw gun

In reply to Tom_Harding:
http://www.climbingwallsolutions.com/climbing-holds.html

In reply to Tom_Harding:
http://www.climbingwallsolutions.com/climbing-holds.html

In reply to Tom_Harding:

You should have a go with Holdz holds i think they are mega. There are tonnes of different hold manufacturers out there, Holdz have such a good range from big jugs which we all like to crimpy crimpers and the range is always expanding. If they are good enough for CWIF too they are good enough for me.

In reply to zoobizooretta:


Seems to me to look exactly the same as every other hold manufacturer has been making for 10 years.

All three of you seem to love Holdz, man are they boring. Have a look at the links in my first post to see what some manufacturers are doing in America because of competition., Holdz keep churning out the same uninspired wall fillers, there cheap and there easy for the climbing wall manager as they are a one stop shop. Sheer laziness on everyone’s part.

Unfortunately my local walls both only use holdz, one cant afford more then 10 new ones a year and the other sets rubbish routes. Hence time to build a woodie.

In reply to RemoteFirstAid:

You don’t have to send me two links to the most common hold supplier in the UK, and my OP sates 'interesting'

In reply to Tom_Harding:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2183

dream holds replica gritstone

In reply to chalkyjim: There on my list already : )

In reply to Tom_Harding:


Check his profile (hint: personal webpage), I'm guessing he knows better than most how good the latest range is

Seriously, before splashing a load of money on some fancy big rock shapes go climb at a wall that uses them. In the vast majority of cases what you actually get is a small-ish hold on a big, pretty looking block. Pointless and less skin friendly than well designed training holds. For big slopers they're ok but again, I'd get idealised, rounded ones you can't be tempted to crimp the texture on. I have some Limestone holds (Pretty looking things from Pusher) on mine, generally they get neglected in favor of smoother simpler shapes because they bruise my tips, not something I'm interested in while trying to train.

In reply to Tom_Harding:

I like my screw-ons that I got from Entre-Prises; http://www.ep-uk.com/store/

In reply to Tom_Harding:

Depends on what you want to train really and what your board configuration is. On mine, (photo in my gallery) I've a good selection from different manufacturers but the ones I prefer are from CORE, both for texture and form. For training you really want something that's not going to trash your skin, so you can, in theory, use it as much as posible, so highly textured holds isn't the way to go.

HRT are also very good, producing some very good shapes with a skin-friendly finish. They're not exactly real rock replicas though!

ENTREPRISE do 'Riglos' and 'Frankenjura' ranges which might be worth a peek.

In reply to Tom_Harding:

This list (in no particular order) may be of some help - it was when I was selecting holds for my woodie. Not all the manufacturers are in the UK and not all are 'interesting', but it's a maybe starter for you:


http://coreclimbing.co.uk/home/Core-Climbing-home-c-276.html

http://www.planetholds.co.uk/cat-Collections-14.aspx

http://www.slvtr.nl/index.php?j_node=10

http://www.customholds.com/climbing_holds.htm

http://www.rockworksclimbing.co.uk/

http://www.rockcandyholds.com/

http://www.slapholds.com/default4.asp

http://www.lapisholds.com/

http://elementclimbing.com/

http://www.soillholds.com/cart.php?m=product_list&c=79

http://www.voodooholds.com/servlet/StoreFront

http://revolutionclimbing.3dcartstores.com/

http://www.synrockholds.com/holds.html

http://www.climbingholds.com/index.php?target=exceptions&exception=no_p...

http://holdz.co.uk/

http://www.hrt-holds.com/

http://www.expression-holds.com/english/holds.htm

http://www.ep-uk.com/store/browse/1

http://www.climbholdfast.co.uk/bolt-on-holds.htm#accessories

http://www.beaconclimbing.com/bolt_on_holds.php

http://www.threeballclimbing.com/rockclimbingholds/bouldering1.htm

http://www.summithut.com/products/wood-grips-5-pack/

http://www.moonclimbing.com/hardgoods/bolt-on-holds-c-302_318.html

http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/bulk_bolt-on_holds.html


F

Thanks everyone this had been a realy usfull thread....

In reply to Tom_Harding:

I don't know what you have against HOLDZ. Its not the holds, but the way they are used.

As for those 'interesting' american holds from Climb-it, they are dull and pointless. Why have three pockets together on one hold, you just end up pinching it, not using it as a pocket.

In reply to Tom_Harding:

www.axisroundedges.com don't seem to have been mentioned on here. They are a small Dutch company with a limited range but they definately a manufacturer that I would recommend and they ship to the UK.

In reply to Tom_Harding:

Hey Tom
Not sure what your problem is with Holdz holds! We use them (as well as loads of other brands) and they have proved very popular with both our customers and route setters. Whats more they are very durable and you get a really good mix in a set. All the big walls use them simply because they are such a good range of holds.

Cheers

Steve D.