UKC

Can anyone give me advice on what is the best available pair of boots (plastic or otherwise) for Alpine mountaineering. Need something good for mixed ground and long walk-ins, but not necessarily very steep or technical ice routes.

In reply to Philip: My friend recently used a pair of scarpa alphas form new in scotland no blisters and very comfy after long walk ins, unlike my scarpa boots!

In reply to Philip: My mate's got a pair of Salomon super mountain 8's swear by 'em. comfiest boots on the planet with a strange velcro strap thing to hold your foot

In reply to Simon:

I second SM8's for sure. Comfy as hell, but might need broken in beforehand.

In reply to Philip: I used the Nepal Extremes for 7 weeks last July in Chamonix and Zermatt. No complaints although they do now need re-soleing as I've had 2 Scottish winters out of them as well. If there are any problems with the Nepals it is the potential for heel blistering. I found that this is simply resolved by getting properly shaped socks, which contour to the shape of the foot such as Thorlo. Another downside is you can be identified as a Brit as they are so popular. A lot of the guides were wearing Nepals or La Sportiva Trango Ice. Both are hard to beat for mixed routes. The trango ice are lighter and probably more comfortable for Alpine summers especially with the flexibility in the ankle. Tey're still compatible with step in crampons as well. I can't comment on the SM8's as I haven't tried them.

In reply to Philip:

I have used a pair of Meindl Super Crack for the last few years, both in the Alps and Scotland. I have found them to be comfortable for the walk in and on mixed stuff but also stiff enough for the occassional steep ice pitch. If you are contemplating summer alpine mountaineering, leather boots should be more than adequate. I'm sure you'll get lots of different suggestions - what works for one person may not work for someone else - it's a case of trying as many as possible until you find the one that works for you.

Good Luck

In reply to Philip:
More basic , bit the Salomon Mountain 7's are pretty light and take a step-in crampon ok. I bought them cos they were the lightest I could find that would accept the step-in but still be comfortable enough for all day walks.

Recommended.

In reply to Philip:

Had my Meindl Crack Pros (B2S) for ages, suggested them to my mate 6 months ago, now he rates them. He does walking, and i do climbing/walking. Both taking them to the alps in June.

Meindl, a good solid make i recon.

Plastics are too solid, although You can take the inners out and wear them whilst inside your tent to dry them out, which may be an issue. THIS IS A BIG ADVANTAGE! But i recon solid leather B2s are your best bet.


Mat

In reply to Philip: This is slightly off topic but still relevant, and might be of interest to potential Salomon buyers: I was considering buying reduced Salomon Mountain Guide 9 Thermics, size 7.5. They fitted very well, and I think they are a v. good boot. In the shop they had a pair of La Sportiva Nepal Extremes 41.5 (should be the equivalent of 7.5)They fitted perfectly, same socks, my own superfeet insoles. And? I hear you ask - Well, the "shell" (the sole) of the Salomons was 2 FULL CENTIMETERS longer than the Sportivas, I couldn't believe it! Of course, after that, I didn't get the Salomons.

In reply to Philip:

La Sportiva Nepal Tops or Extremes a great Alpine boot good enough for steep ice and long walk ins and OK on rock. Climed the Ordinary Route Nelion on Mount Kenya in them for example !

Super Mountain Guides 9 , awful , will crush your feet though they are too narrow and .. have no flex at all due to the metal nid sole plate , (want mine £20 ! worn twice , still suffering )

If you are spending alot of your time on snow and in sub zero conditions you may be better with plastics as leather can freeze over several days ( bad exp in Nepal ! ) Scarpa Alpha's I have a pair and they are great and can be shaped to fit shells in a hot oven by ski shops , had mine done.

Best of luck with your choice , sean

In reply to Philip:

Thinking about it, dont take my advice ive already written, whats good for one person isnt necisarily good for another. My boots are great for my feet, but my feet are probably hideously deformed yours may not be.

Listen to peoples advice on build quality and price, but dont listen to the 'oh, they made my feet bleed' storys, as everyones feet are different just the same as their walking style and weight distribution.

(This isnt saying that all these peoples opinions arnt valid though)

I recon you should try on every boot in the shop classed as a B2 grade (winter wallking/alpine/easy climbing boots). See which ones are comfortable (and dont be affraid to march round the shop for a full hour, as its a lot of wanga youre spending). Then buy em.

Mat

In reply to matnoo:

vasque are the new big thing- expensive but light years ahead of the competition. Barrabes.com are selling Sportivas for £140 by the way. Best boot I've worn- Freneys leak & SM8's either fit like a glove or trash your feet.

My SM9's took ages to break in, and were really quite painful to start with. Persevere, however cos they fit like slippers now... Plus they only cost about £80 these days.

In reply to Simon Overton:

Yep, the new Vasques seem great, but bear in mind also the new Sportivas (Nuptse and Jannu) if you want to have a brief overview go and check http://www.planetmountain.com. Also the new Scarpas look good purely by looking at the specs (Phantom Lite etc.).

I have climbed with Sportiva Trango Extremes (similar to the old blue Freneys) this winter (ice climbing) and last autumn (general scrambling & easy rock climbing) and had no leaks, but most of the time temps were well below zero or the weather was dry. Will be testing them in the Alps this this summer (though will be using with gaiters, so most of the seams will be covered).

In reply to Luke:

The reason they only cost £80 ( and dont sell even at thta price ) is that they are the most uncomfortable boot in the world ,

former wearers look like chinese foot bandaging victims after wearing them and can found inhabiting wheel chairs for a while

Sean

In reply to Philip: I DID sell my SM9s for £20 a couple of years back, after 2 weeks of agony in the alps. I've had a pair of Sportivas ever since.
Best advice I can offer, try lots of boots on and walk around the shop for hours p1ssing the staff off.

In reply to Anonymous: Had mine for a couple of years now and i love them (though in retrospect would get the thermic versionnow)....but they did take a quite a bit to "wear" them in....but once done superb...

Don't believe all the press about Nepal Extremes....they do not suit everybody's feet....

Have you heard of Kayland (very big in Chamonix) - to see their gear visit www.kayland.com

In reply to Philip: i have spent years in incomfortable boots but have finally found the best boots around. scarpa cumbres! so comfy for walkins and climbing hardly any breaking in needed. if you think they might be too much try the freney pro's, same design but only b2 and a bit lower, designed for summer alpine i believe.
just try them on and you'll believe what i say

In reply to Philip:

approach shoes, some plastic bags, and instep crampons....then change into more technical footwear, as appropriate, for the climbing...

Suppose it depends on the alpine area you are climbing at....

Mick

In reply to Philip: Check out the article in High Mountain this month

In reply to Philip: I used to have a pair of the old Salomon super mountain 8s before they took them off sale because they couldn't actually take a C2 crampon. I found them ok, but took a long time to break in (and several blisters!) and still got the occasional blister. In January I decided to get the La Sportiva Nepal Extremes, so I didn't have to worry about crampons coming off and my 'breaking in' for them consisted of an 'interesting' walk/scramble up a steep turf hill. Have worn them for 2 weeks climbing in scotland and so far (touch wood!) they have been brilliant - no blisters or anything.

Don't know if I got on better with the nepals partly because i was already used to wearing stiff boots, but either way, they are still more comfortable than my old ones! However, they are expensive and don't fit everyone's feet (although everyone I kow who has got them, love them), so try before you buy!!

Ali xx

Blatantly you need a pair of Nepal Extremes. Because they're yellow, and look cool.

In reply to Philip:

I've got Salomon SM9's and had no problems with them at all great buy!

Just thought, mine are the thermics (insulated) perhaps the insulation helps with comfort?

I'd still try a pair on if I were you they're good value compared to the "posers" nepal extremes.

In reply to Philip: Depends on the shape of your tootsies, you need to go to a good mountain shop like RR which has a range, at the end of a day when your feet have swollen up a bit, and try them on. I would go for something that is B2, although for glacier travel the Scarpa SLs seem to work. My La Sportivas seem to work for hillwalking in Wales and technical ice, as do the Meindl Mtn cracks- but if they dont fit your feet...

In reply to Philip: They've got some slightley second hand Super Mountain 9's in the Crag X shop at the Foundry in Sheffield (@ about £80) not sure of the size, but there No is 0114 2769741. Hope this is useful!

In reply to Philip: jeepers so many people putting up with Salomon boots cos they got them cheap (for obvious reasons) you have not climbed untill youve had some sportivas on your plates, even the scarpas are better than salomon!!!

In reply to Philip: I have used SM9s for the last four years and they are suitable for UK winter climbing needs but I did find that a non-plastic boot in the Alps over a long period will cause the feet to become cold. My SM9s are thermic but I found that my feet were pretty cold after about six or so hours. My mate, a BMG said that plastic boots provided more insulation.

Something to consider but good luck. The way people are going on about Nepal Extrem boots I'll have to try them. I found the SM9s fit like slippers and I didn't even have to break them in. I use SM8s and SM9s depending upon the type of winter ascent.

In reply to Philip:

YOU CANT TAKE ADVICE OFF PEOPLE ON BOOTS AS AVERYONES FEET ARE DIFFERENT!!!

Just get anything classed as a B2 boot that fits well. If people sayg 'scarpas are good' or 'saloman are good', only take advice on build quality, as its the fit thats most important by far.

Get the ones that fit! I got a pair of Meindl Crack Pros, that are fantastic, recommended them to a mate, and he got realy pissed off with me for advising him as theyre aweful for him. (he sold them to me though heh heh).

Realy, what ever fits best. Take a long time choosing. Its worth the extra hour or two.

Mat

In reply to Philip:
I've use SM9 guides for scottish winter and alpine summer - comfy and warm every time with never a blister. I'm told that salomons are good for narrow feet (like mine) and spotivas are better for wide feet. Salomon sizing is odd - mine are 43s, and my scarpa and 5.10 rock shoes are 42s. 'Nuff said. Hope that helps.

In reply to Philip: It all depends on the FIT FIT FIT FIT FIT FIT FIT FIT FIT FIT. That is unless you're going to be doing super hard stuff. Try on as many as you can. Spend all day in a shop with lots of boots in all the sizes. Don't go for a particular brand - although it's worth knowing that lasportiva are considerably wider than salomon. You know when boots properly fit - it feels good.

In reply to Philip: Get the Sportiva Nepal Tops (non insulated) dont know if they still make them?, also to avoid cold feet in winter dont tighten up the laces too much round the foot itself but rather keep the ankle and shin tight for support. The sportiva lacing system works well for this. And wear 2 pairs of socks (1 thin first then 1 thick on top), so take that into account when you are trying them on.

In reply to HP:

Fits at min?

In reply to Philip: Yup - Re narrow feet. I've used my (non thermic) SM9G's for ice climbing in the alps and rockies in winter, multipitch at -16C with no probs. Wouldn't want to get benighted in really cold conditions in em though.

In reply to Ali:

That's not true, as I have CM S12s and they fit the SM8s like a dream! They seem to be able to climb D ice in the Alps as well (but they need a person attached to them for this). Perhaps my SM8s are the exception to the rule.

In reply to Philip: Impossible to recommend a boot for someone else as manufacturers all have different 'lasts' (foot mouldings) that they model their boots around. You need to go to a shop and try different models on.