/ NEW ARTICLE: Stanage - Britain's Most Popular Crag

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UKC Articles - on 18 Jun 2010
[Right Unconquerable, 3 kb]Gritstone local and professional photographer Adam Long takes us on a quick tour of Stanage - the queen of grit.

We get route recommendations, all the info a visiting climber needs, plus of course a set of absolutely stunning photographs.

What are you waiting for?!

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2526

Chris the Tall - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
"stretches for over a mile"

Technically this is correct, but a bit of an understatement !

Good article, great pics !

Can we start a campaign to ban the suffix "Edge" - it's unnecessary and almost as annoying as Mount Snowdon or Pendle Hill (or the Peaks.....)
Gorrilla on 18 Jun 2010 - dyn161101.shef.ac.uk
In reply to Chris the Tall:

Good article, stanage really needs talking up, no one ever goes there..........
johncoxmysteriously - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Gorgeous pictures.

jcm
Adam Long - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to Chris the Tall:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
> "stretches for over a mile"
>
> Technically this is correct, but a bit of an understatement!

Hmm, I didn't write that sentence - blame the editor!
DaveFidler on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: "No other grit edge has an arete to rival Archangel"

Masters Edge?
billb - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles: Stanage's got nothing on winspit quarry!
Stuart (aka brt) - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to Chris the Tall:

It is Stanage Edge and Pendle Hill according to OS.
Adam Long - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to Gorilla:
> (In reply to Chris the Tall)
>
> Good article, stanage really needs talking up, no one ever goes there..........

Funnily enough, I was up at Stanage End last night and for the first time in my life it was actually busy - ten or twelve parties. Not sure my quip of 'christ - its like Stanage up here!' amused anyone but myself though.
Will Hunt - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to DaveFidler: I haven't done Master's Edge but I doubt any arete climb could be as perfect as Archangel. Its astounding how pure that line is. Until the break its just you, the arete, friction and your demons.
Adam Long - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to Will Hunt:

Quite. Master's edge is quarried and reliant on crimps and shotholes. Archangel is just one big hold, a piece of natural sculpture.
Fredt on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

I've never measured and added up the climbing sections, but I've always thought of Stanage as four miles long. And I'd be pretty confident that there was more rock than not.
Michael Gordon - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

I'd agree that Stanage deserves the title 'Queen of Grit' but the best Britain has to offer? Er...... nope
Chris Shorter - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

Tut-tut! Left Unconquerable isn't a Brown route. Tom Probert 1949.
In reply to Fredt:

According to Google Earth it is 3.1 miles, following the escarpment, from the Cowper Stone, to End Slab. Not sure what % 0f that is cliff, maybe >50%?


Chris
Adam Long - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Maybe 60 or 70% in the southern half, probably less than 30% north of the Causeway.
Chris the Tall - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
How far do you make it from Suzanne to Dover's Wall, which is pretty much continous
In reply to Chris the Tall:

Not much over a quarter of a mile - which doesn't seem much!

Also I would guess High Neb to End Slab is only 10% routes.


Chris
stewieatb on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to brt:
> (In reply to Chris the Tall)
>
> It is Stanage Edge and Pendle Hill according to OS.

The OS think Esk Buttress is Dow Crag, and think the Eric Byne campsite is about 400 yards away from where it really is and on the wrong side of the farm track. Take a look at the naming bit in the article - Stanage is a contraction of Stone Edge, so saying Stanage Edge is saying Stone Edge Edge.
Stuart (aka brt) - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to stewieatb:

The contraction has attained it's own suffix. It matters not.
Graeme Hammond - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to Adam Long:

there was a club meet at stanage end last night but it is usually deserted and a great place for some solitary evening solos
James Oswald - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to DaveFidler:
In reply to UKC Articles: "No other grit edge has an arete to rival Archangel"


Equilibrium or Wizard ridge?
PeakDJ on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to James Oswald:

I take it you've done all 3 of them then? :)
jamiev on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to PeakDJ:

excellent photographs
James Oswald - on 18 Jun 2010
In reply to PeakDJ:
Of course :)
James
Michael Hood - on 20 Jun 2010
In reply to Chris Shorter:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> Tut-tut! Left Unconquerable isn't a Brown route. Tom Probert 1949.

I thought Probert's ascent was under question; since he didn't remember it himself.

Will Hunt - on 20 Jun 2010
In reply to James Oswald:
Read above. Difficulty does not equate directly into quality or pureness of line.
simes303 - on 21 Jun 2010
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to UKC Articles)
>
> I'd agree that Stanage deserves the title 'Queen of Grit' but the best Britain has to offer? Er...... nope

I would have to say that its not even good for a grit crag. Yes it's long but so what? Ive never understood why people go on about it so much. No way is it better than Burbage South, Froggatt, Curbar, Millstone etc etc.

Michael Gordon - on 21 Jun 2010
In reply to Will Hunt:
> (In reply to James Oswald)
> Read above. Difficulty does not equate directly into quality or pureness of line.

I don't think he mentioned difficulty? Surely Equilibrium is one of THE great arete lines. It's nails but so what?
gribble - on 21 Jun 2010
In reply to simes303:

You forgot to add Yarncliffe.
davidwright - on 21 Jun 2010
In reply to stewieatb:
> (In reply to brt)
> [...]
>
> The OS think Esk Buttress is Dow Crag, and think the Eric Byne campsite is about 400 yards away from where it really is and on the wrong side of the farm track. Take a look at the naming bit in the article - Stanage is a contraction of Stone Edge, so saying Stanage Edge is saying Stone Edge Edge.

Yes and Pendle hill actually means hill hill hill if you breakdown the entomology. It doesn't matter, all it shows is that the "age" is no longer recognised as meaning edge but the feature is still recognised. "Stanage" has been used to name things around the edge so the edge its self now needs the suffix. Just as pendle hill is used to distinguish the hill from the town despite it being an entomological tautology.
TimS on 21 Jun 2010 - host217-34-43-237.in-addr.btopenworld.com
In reply to Michael Gordon:
> (In reply to Will Hunt)
> [...]
>
> Surely Equilibrium is one of THE great arete lines. It's nails but so what?

The big ledge kind of spoils it a bit eh? Compared to the route company it keeps at Burb South it's not all that impressive IMHO.

Great article Adam.
pneame on 21 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:
Great essay, good selection of pics.
Thanks
alicia - on 21 Jun 2010
In reply to UKC Articles:

This is very cruel to people who have recently moved away from Sheffield! Great photos.
Michael Gordon - on 21 Jun 2010
In reply to TimS:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
> [...]
>
> The big ledge kind of spoils it a bit eh?

Maybe. Looks stunning above that though!

Chris the Tall - on 21 Jun 2010
In reply to davidwright:
> (In reply to stewieatb)
> [...]
>
> Yes and Pendle hill actually means hill hill hill if you breakdown the entomology. It doesn't matter, all it shows is that the "age" is no longer recognised as meaning edge but the feature is still recognised. "Stanage" has been used to name things around the edge so the edge its self now needs the suffix. Just as pendle hill is used to distinguish the hill from the town despite it being an entomological tautology.

There's a town called Pendle ? When was that built, cos it certainly wasn't there 25 years ago !

And in another 25 years the newspapers will be calling it Mount Pendlehill

Stanage is the Edge, no suffix required

(oh god I'm turning into Al....)

ericinbristol - on 21 Jun 2010
In reply to davidwright:

entomology = study of insects
Etymology = study of origins of words
Jonny2vests - on 22 Jun 2010
In reply to simes303:
> (In reply to Michael Gordon)
> [...]
>
> I would have to say that its not even good for a grit crag. Yes it's long but so what? Ive never understood why people go on about it so much. No way is it better than Burbage South, Froggatt, Curbar, Millstone etc etc.

Would be nice to hear you justify that. I'm a big fan of all of those crags, but Stanage has class and bags of it, more so than even Millstone, which I am loath to admit.

Maybe you need to go there on a quite weekday evening.

Jonny2vests - on 22 Jun 2010
In reply to Eric Herring:
> (In reply to davidwright)
>
> entomology = study of insects
> Etymology = study of origins of words

Lol, maybe he's studied the insects on Pendle Hill Eric :)

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