UKC

In this weeks' Friday Night Video Adrian Baxter climbs the classic F8b Tuppence.

"Anstey's is a really special crag—it contains perhaps the only piece of rock in England that is comparable to steep Spanish limestone, and on it is a very special route, Tuppence..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=55924

In reply to UKC News:
Good editing and nice not to have silly music in the background spoiling it. A bit beyond me but looked impressive performance.
If only I was 30 years younger!

In reply to UKC News: Excellent photography, the amount of different camera angles, the moving into and out of focus on closeups, the intensity in the eyes, the foot work - all on camera in a piece lasting 1 minute 44 seconds. I wonder how many ascents / cameras this took.

In reply to UKC News:

Great video, proof that good climbing vids dont need music!

I did notice however that the foothold he jumps from at the beginning (0.31) appears again at 0.37 and 1.03. Also the crimp at 0.26 appears out of no where at 1.04.

In reply to UKC News:

Loved this video! Ken Palmer will be impressed .

And finally some recognition for my local crag - love it! No grit down here .

Chris

In reply to UKC News:

Great climbing and beautiful filming, but absolutely ridiculous editing. So bad in fact that the editing is totally obscuring the actual climbing. They might as have taken a bunch of 5 seconds clips and pasted them together in random order. Or maybe that is in fact what they did, as evidenced by the exact same sequence of footholds and holds appearing several times at different parts of the video (at 0:26 to 0:32 and 1:00 to 1:05. The same foothold also appears at 0:37).

Oh well, at least he started at the bottom and finished at the top.

In reply to Hamfunk:

Beat me to it. But at least I'm not the only grumpy old man around here

In reply to UKC News:

When was Adrian's ascent? Last year or the year before? It can't have been this year as there's been hardly any rain in the last 3 months, particularly at weekends.

Although it's great to see someone climb one of Ken's many great routes, the film is badly edited and not that inspiring. It doesn't show how steep Ferocity Wall is, it starts with Adrian clipping draws into his harness but then when he's climbing the draws are mysteriously already in etc etc. And the following clips from the man himself are much better and more inspiring, despite the crap music and ultra-loud shirt in the former!

youtube.com/watch?v=ZwcP8TRXWok&

youtube.com/watch?v=T_oKqkNcIlc&

In reply to UKC News: Empire upgraded to 7b+? Bit of a shame, it was a great sandbag at 7b!

In reply to Cusco:

It was done last October. first go putting the clips and working the moves, second go clean ascent.

Despite the editing critiques, I think it's an awesome video

Aid just done Geminis in Rodellar, another 8b+ that was a downgraded from 8c.

In reply to UKC News:

I am in no way detracting from the quality climbing, but I couldn't make it through more than a minute of this.

I'm sure there's a lot of good footage and it could have been fantastic, but the editing is a disaster. Unwatchable.

In reply to UKC News: For a short clip I thought it was slick. All the action and not too much beta (for those going for a try!)

thought that was a great! unique editing. nice style for a short vid. impressed.

In reply to murdster:

It's only a minute and 40 secs! You really have a short attention span

vimeo.com/6872301

In reply to Richard Hall:

?

Can't see the vid at work but heard no word of that on the street. Empire Direct is 7b+ though?

In reply to quadmyre: Look at the picture of the guide book in the article. It says 7b+. This was my first 7b years ago and pretty bench mark I would have thought.

In reply to quadmyre: According to the Rockfax SW guide in the photo.

My opinion is that by Ansteys standards it is 7b. Ansteys standards however are hard as nails and it would be considered to be pretty stiff for 7b anywhere else.

In reply to Richard Hall: I would say solid 7b by british standards, plenty others are as hard. Not tough enough for 7b+ except in 'nu skool' kalymnos style systems surely?

In reply to sheila_s: I agree. 7b.5 (ish)