UKC

Knot uses - help

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 oem_uk 28 Jun 2010
Hi,

Why does this knot have 2 names or 2 varients?

Can you use either when absailing or is one better.

http://www.riverconnection.com/knots/Klemheist2.jpg

http://www.animatedknots.com/photos/prusik/prusikR8.jpg

thanks
In reply to oem_uk: klemheist isnt releasable under load.
In reply to airbournegrapefruit: bugger neither is the other one. dont use either when abseiling. ill find the right one.
OP oem_uk 28 Jun 2010
In reply to airbournegrapefruit: thanks
Removed User 28 Jun 2010
In reply to oem_uk:

The knot has several variants.

The Klemheist is better for use with slings apparently.

Also similar is the French Prussik which slides up easier than the Prusik, thus better for ascending the rope.
sm1thson 28 Jun 2010
In reply to oem_uk: I think that the klemheist is better for use on poles, but i may be mistaken there, can anyone confirm I would like to know for sure? and as above a sling can be used. (and for completeness as above use the FRENCH prussic for abseiling (not the 'normal' one))
neilnevill 28 Jun 2010
In reply to Removed User:

I thought the french prussik SHOULDN'T be used to ascend a rope as it can slip underload. Us it for abseiling and use the standard prussik for ascending.
Removed User 28 Jun 2010
In reply to neilnevill:

I'm no instructor. I generally use a kleimheist for everything!
 stewieatb 28 Jun 2010
In reply to neilnevill: I've heard french prusik for foot loop, klemheist for main (harness) prusik as a compromise. I use french for abs and klemheist for ascending.
neilnevill 30 Jun 2010
In reply to stewieatb:
The 'how to video' on this site, Libby Peter's uses a french to abseil, also BMC site here http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1736
and now....the definative answer surely [ducks] th BMC knots booklet http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/equipment_advice/techn...

french can slip under load so NOT for ascending
standard for ascending but can slip on wet or icy ropes (won't any knot?)
kleimheist - can be used with tape or slings but can't be released undr tension and may jam but can be used in any prussiking situation.
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