/ NEW ARTICLE: Scafell - Lake District
In this destination article, UKC Assistant Editor Mark Glasiter shows us the best mountain rock in England.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2853
Great article, thanks
yes, and inspiring photos. good stuff.
Wonderful - evocative and brilliantly capturing the history of the place. Great to see those historical milestones standing alongside modern test-pieces in the same article.
Just read this after waking for another working day in Hong Kong - what a great way to wake up and forget about the tedium. Thanks very much!
Good article, but I thought you did Central Buttress ("one of the most famous rock climbs in the country" according to the FRCC) a bit of an injustice.
I can't claim to have climbed it before the supposed "demise of a large flake" (I suspect the author hasn't climbed the route...), but it was still without a doubt one of the most exciting and spectacular routes I have climbed.
Superb article. Beautifully illustrated.
Fair enough Mark - and I wish I'd seen it in its original condition though. The flake is still there, just a chockstone missing I gather? :)
What went was a very large wedged flake in the crack. It was a great tradegy as someone was killed when it fell out.
You can see the where the original wedge flake was by comparing the photo on page 69 in Hard Rock (the climber has his right hand on it) with this picture http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=109859 where it is now missing.
> Hi Jonny
> You can see the where the original wedge flake was by comparing the photo on page 69 in Hard Rock (the climber has his right hand on it) with this picture http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=109859 where it is now missing.
Just late night wondering about this route - I did it back in the late 70's before the Flake/Chock gave up. What I'm trying to recall was that when it did go, wasn't there a serious accident? I'm trying to dig deep to recall this, but I have a nagging feeling that there was a tragedy there.
Just a personal thing - not wishing to dampen a great article
I'm pretty sure one of the team climbing it was killed, when the chock came out it took his leg off or something. As you say, bit of a tragedy really.
Ah, I understand! Thanks for straightening me out. I had always assumed it was a chockstone similar to the ones still in there that had gone in the accident that changed the route.
From memory it was a large (maybe a metre long) jammed flake that stuck out of the crack about 20-30 cm.
Still looks like a great bit of climbing (up the crack) without the flake though - I'm told it goes at E3 5c?
I believe that's the grade, though it didn't look that bad when I accidentally set off up it. I wonder if there is quite a bit more hard climbing "round the corner" (or getting round it) where the angle of the flake eases. If you trust the big chockstone with the sling around it I think the "overhanging" bit of the flake looked reasonably well protected?
At the very abrupt top of the flake you make a very easy and pleasant hand traverse at about Severe along the top edge of it, to the stance. The huge chockstone provided a totally bombproof thread when I did it some time in the late 70s, i.e. there was no hint then of any looseness. The first move or two above the chockstone was very strenuous and awkward (probably meriting 5b), but once you'd got started the top was reached in one or two easier moves.
> From memory it was a large (maybe a metre long) jammed flake that stuck out of the crack about 20-30 cm.
My memory is that it stuck out rather more than that - probably about 15 inches.
Thanks. It sounds like it was a good thing I realised my mistake when I did, before going any higher then! You still get to enjoy at least part of the spectacular hand traverse - the face route, involving some delicate climbing that I found extremely enjoyable, takes you up to a point about halfway along the horizontal part of the hand traverse.
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