/ NEWS: Nesscliffe Ticking

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UKC News - on 09 Aug 2010
Slap slap, 3 kbSam Hamer and Finn McCann have just had a great week at the Shropshire sandstone quarry of Nesscliffe, ticking many of the hard classic routes.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57094
chris_j_s - on 09 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Sounds like a fantastic week.

Very funny that the quote you used had such a great spelling mistake, the mind boggles at the concept of a "souring arÍte"!
In reply to UKC News: After we did Red Square last week, my wife held the bottom holds of My Piano and announced she didn't understand how anyone could climb it! That was my first trip to Nesscliffe despite having driven past many time - I also agree it's strange that its not more famous than it is. Good effort to Hamer/McCann team. Which were redpoints and which were onsights?
Alex Thompson - on 09 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News:
"I just can't understand why this place has not had more press as it is certainly one of Britain's climbing treasures"
Amen. But I think a quick scan of the grade range will explain why its not more popular... Good circuit of easier bouldering for mere mortals though.
Owen W-G - on 09 Aug 2010
In reply to Alex Thompson:

Good effort lads.
Surprised they spent a full week there tho. Looks like they ticked the crag, with no reason to come back. Locals aside, most people visit Nescliffe and other A5 crags enroute to/fro N Wales.
Ed Booth - on 09 Aug 2010
In reply to Owen W-G: Finn is a local. Good effort guys.
Duncan Campbell - on 09 Aug 2010
In reply to Owen W-G: Hamer is a bangor uni wad so regrlarly crushes Norh Wales...

Nice one Hamer you complete and utter beast! see you in september!
Ojas on 13 Aug 2010
Really impressed guys! My past ventures at Nesscliffe were an uncomfortable one with pro not sitting in the soft sandstone very well and easily ripping out. You soon learn not to weight it too much.
If anyone wants to go an give Nessie a go without having to lead, definately can do Red Square on toprope and your guaranteed a good day out.
There is also some secret bouldering at the top of the quarry. Good hunting and be careful of that edge!
In reply to Ojas:

> If anyone wants to go an give Nessie a go without having to lead, definately can do Red Square on toprope and your guaranteed a good day out.

Red Square is pretty easy to protect and swallows hexes, large nuts and medium cams. Top roping it would be missing the point!
Ojas on 14 Aug 2010
In reply to TobyA: Agreed, but for those who want to have a go at Nesscliffe but maybe haven't yet got the confidence with protecting sandstone, Red Square is a good one to toprope as its a good climb at a good height and you can easily rig it so that your ropes don't cut into the rock.
Just sharing a bit of knowledge so we can all look after the crag and keep an eye out for each other.

And on that note: Nesscliffe can get really soft and greasy 2-3 days after rain as the rock is really porous. Good thing to know if you don't fancy getting too much air time and testing the gear you are putting in the wall.

In reply to Ojas: I take your point but what I really liked about RS is that the gear it takes is almost all quite big, so that it feels more reliable than if you were, say, having to place no.1- and 2-sized nuts for your gear. Something good for those wanting to try to know - lots of hexes and bigger nuts useful. Although coming from Worcestershire (the world's worst sandstone!?), I was quite pleasantly relieved by how hard the Nesscliffe sandstone is, even if it isn't quite Torridonian standards!
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Franco Cookson on 14 Aug 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Ace! Nice list, I have to get me to Nesscliffe, looks so cool. Any info on the styles of the ascents?

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