UKC

I've just bought some new prusik loops and want to know what knot to tie them into a loop with. all of my friends use a fishermans knot but i'd like to be a bit different, mainly so i can tell them apart from all my partners prussik loops. I'm not sure a reef knot would be that secure so can anyone on here suggest a good knot to use?
thank you.

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:
A double fishermans is the knot to use in the situation. A reef knot would have to be backed up by a fishermans anyway. Just put some tape around one of the loose ends to distinguise them as yours.

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:

use a double fishermans, it is the best knot for this application, your live may depend on it

if you want to distinguish them put some fancy tape on

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:

You could tie a Water knot.

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:reef knots are bad news, they shouldnt be used for critical things (I just avoid using them altogether).

In reply to lithos:


Yes ok, but i quite want to use a different knot, just for interest really. How about a figure of 8, that would work wouldn't it? Tape is a good idea, I need to find some sparkly tape!

I'm not sure what a water knot is, is that an overhand knot?

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:

Rethreaded in the opposite direction. Leave long tails, then load it well before snipping the ends.

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:
I fig8 would roll as soon as you weighted it. I've pulled one apart in cord quite easily. A waterknot is another name for a tape knot. Not sure about the strength of that tied in cord though, and whether it would slip. If you can't find sparkly tape then use some glitter nail varnish, just on the spare ends though!!

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar: not sure what the forum phrase is but this guy is having a giggle.

In reply to liz j: no, a figure of eight but threaded backwards wont roll will it? Basically the figure 8 version of what the other poster called a water knot (I get that one now). liking the nail varnish idea!

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:
Having just tied a tape knot in a piece of cord, it does look up to the job. But I think I'll stick to my double fishermans, it looks prettier.

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:
If you really want to be different, you can be dead. Use a double fisherman's and don't share them with your mates.

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:
A re-threaded fig8 is a pretty bulky knot though, but I have no idea if it would be a strong knot. You are correct though, it won't roll tied like that.

In reply to liz j: Surely an overhand is better than a re-threaded fig 8?? same cancept as tying two ropes together when abseiling, aka, you never tie with a fig 8

In reply to Luuuke: god... my typing skills... i meant concept

In reply to Luuuke:
Yes, I'm sure an overhand would be fine, but the long tails would be a pain in the arse. I wouldn't use a fig8 at all, but the OP is correct in saying that it wouldn't roll if it was re-threaded as per a tape knot.

Double fishermans is the way forward, how can so many climbers be wrong!!

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:

"all of my friends use a fishermans knot but i'd like to be a bit different,"

Dbl fishermans is strong, safe and reliable, and in numerous strength tests has outperformed every other knot. I've always worked on the basis that being alive but following what is best (which co-incidentally is what everyone else uses) is better than being different but dead...

As another said, coloured tape is the way forward?

In any case, how often do you use a prussik? Mine have been hanging off the back of my harness for years, and I hope that will remain the case for many years yet...

In reply to John_Hat:


you never abseil ? used practically every day last week on training course !

In reply to Paddy Duncan:


but the other knots the people have suggested arent dangerous are they? just because something isn't common doesn't mean that it is wrong. i mean lots of people tie in with a bowline which is weaker than a figure of eight. i wasn't planning on loading my new prussiks anywhere near enough for the knot to be close to breaking!!

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:

ok i tried to be helpful, now i think you are trolling

Climbing 11.20 years to HVS and dont know
it's not about strength its about security (coming undone)

over and out

In reply to lithos:

Oxymoron!

In reply to petestack: i agrre where does guy come from the knot is used because of research. God just buy different coloured cord

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:

Personally I consider them all dangerous for this application, as they tend to undo themselves when not under load. No one is going to recognise your 'different' prussic when it's lying untied at the base of the crag. As lithos says, it's not about the strength. People do also tie in with bowlines, possibly to get nearer the bolt, or perhaps they need to tie/untie quickly.

In reply to liz j: Definitely agree on double fishermens, but don't use nail varnish! Can't imagine the solvents in nail varnish would do good things to the cord at all...

In reply to MJH:
Yes that as well....
Or are trolls immortal?

In reply to MJH:
Which is why I said to put it on the loose end!! I was only kidding anyway, glittery and all that

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:

Triple Fisherman's.

In reply to iamthegodoflochnagar:
Thrappleworth Hitch.

Might just be worth saying, Dont put tape around the loose ends.. If u cant see the end of the cord, it may be slowly slipping into the knot. Until one day, Bang. No Loop anymore!

In reply to Luuuke:

No, actually.

Rethreaded overhand (ie water knot) is ok but a better choice for joining tape than cord. Not as reassuringly permanent as a well set-up double fisherman's, which is the standard choice for prussik loops (or any permanent loop of cord, like an in-situ thread).

Completely different is the overhand tied as for abseiling, where it's a good choice because it's secure enough for the temporary application while presenting a small profile to the rock (to lessen the likelyhood of ropes getting stuck) and not locking tight (allowing quick untying). This last characteristic makes it a poor choice for permanent/multi-use applications, where you want a knot that will tighten up under load.