/ NEWS: VIDEO: The Continuing Adventures of Tom, Pete, Adam and Andy
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57664
Would be great to know the music credit please.
I really hope Tom wiil write a report on it, but yesterday has finished the first Orco Valley Trad Climbing Meeting, organized by the Italian CAAI (the Academical Alpine Club), and it was a huge success, with dozens for young, strong climbers from all over the world joining forces to repeat the classics and the hardest routes and create new lines on the granite of Valle Orco.
I believe the climbing quality seen has been absolutely outstanding even for Orco's standard, but I think that Tom's contribution (that has included opening a new route near the Fessura della Disperazione) was absolutely outstanding.
The spotlight on Tom wasn't exclusively on the crags: he (along with another Brit legend, Lindsay Griffin) has been one of the stars of the post-meeting conference on the state of trad climbing in Orco (and in Italy) organized by the CAAI. This - my opinion - was really one of the highlights on the meeting; Tom made a relatively short but very interesting (and funny) presentation of his Orco activites to a mesmerize audience - and what an audience!
There were - among others - some of the greatest senior names of Italian climbing history, among them Andrea Mellano (first Italian ascent of NF of Eiger, first Italian ascent of the Alpine Trilogy), Vasco Taldo (one of the men of the Torres del Paine "race" with Bonington and Whillans in 1963 - BTW, according to him that was mostly a myth, they got along with Whillans quite well) and no one else than Ugo "Pan E Pera" Manera, who started the whole Orco Valley climbing thing in 1970 with Gianpiero Motti, Giancarlo Grassi and Mike Kosterlitz .
For me, the most emotional moment of the evening was when Tom stated, quite nonchalantly, that he's been 7 times in Orco and 14 in Yosemite, but he intends to come back to Orco every year, as now he thinks Orco is a time capsule back into what Yosemite may have been once. Manera, who's now 72, was absolutely ecstatic, with a huge grin from ear to ear, and made no mystery he consider Tom's achievement as a continuation, even in spirit, of what he and Kosterlitz (another Brit) and the others did back in the early 70. It was a magical moment of triumph, and really gave everyone the sense that something has gone full circle after 40 years.
Thanks for posting this Luca.
Its always good to hear of people bring joy to climbing communities rather than just rants of peoples unethical practices.
Well done Tom. Was this the route you mentioned on Fit club wanting to go back to?
> Great film.
> Would be great to know the music credit please.
Likewise. Think first track (with digeridoo) sounded like fat freddy's drop, but don't know the name.
Great vid, Tom and Co, nice one.
It's a really important event and I'm glad that the passion was running high there! Lots more people should know about this unique area....
Will post a link on UKC once I've gotten pen to paper/keyboard!
Grubes; no luck on project - more of a fun, socialising trip really. No hardcore climbing for me! Probably a bit too full of pasta and cappuccinos to be doing anything like that anyway ;-)
Re: music - I'll get Adam, the film maker to post something up.
Hi Tom, really curious to read your impressions.
You wouldn't believe how high. Reportedly, someone "anonymously" re-bolted the "Diedro Atomico" at the Inflazione Strisciante just monday, apparently in retaliation to the meeting!
Having seen you climb and having seen you eat I beg to differ :)
Looking forward to read your report.
Oh well good excuse to go back again ;)
I had the pleasure of participating in the meeting as well. Club Alpino Accademico Italiano did a really good job in hosting us the whole week. Spoiling us with great climbing in the day and wonderful food in the evening.
The top route for me during the week was definitely "Itica nel sole/Rattle Snake" on the Caporal. It's really a high quality route that has everything from chimneys, slabs and fantastic jam-cracks. The route has recently been de-bolted and hence no expansion bolts can be found in the route (except for the belays) Climbing the route in this fashion was (for me) rather committing in the top section.
In regard to the other areas it's sad to see an area in the valley like 'Droide' that is a fine quality place with some great cracks that for some reason has been bolted.
Chopped bolts where all around on many of the other routes I climbed. 'Nautilus' on Sergent, 'La Spigolo' and 'Pesce d'Aprile' on Torre di Aimonin had all been de-bolted. It could have been done in a better way! The bolts had simply been cut leaving some metal in place, there are better ways of removing bolts.
In any case it was a good meeting and a good way for the CAAI trying define what 'Trad Climbing' actually is when you take it into a mountain range like Orco, where the valley climbs on Caporal and Sergent is a mixture between mountaineering and cragging.
Valle dell'Orco is fantastic place and I will definitely be back!
My pictures from the meet are online here:
What??! Really? That's Andreas's route isn't it? That's a real shame if it's come about so quickly after the meeting. I suppose with any difference in ethic, there will always be a settling down period. I just hope that it swings in the right direction when all is said and done.
I did see that some bolts on a couple of the routes at the Droide have been chopped, so possibly there is some de-bolting activity there.
> What??! Really? That's Andreas's route isn't it? That's a real shame if it's come about so quickly after the meeting. I suppose with any difference in ethic, there will always be a settling down period. I just hope that it swings in the right direction when all is said and done.
Precisely. Apparently the same people who were so shy during the final debate have decided the best course of action is to bolt stuff so it doesn't get climbed (interesting logic...). This while local newspaper were publishing stories about the meeting stating that local administration are starting to take notice that maybe a younger, stronger climbing scene is perhaps the best way to bring people to Orco.
> I did see that some bolts on a couple of the routes at the Droide have been chopped, so possibly there is some de-bolting activity there.
I really hoped that the debate (but more than the debate - the climbing!) could put the opposing faction to talk to each other instead of resorting to "terror" tactics. Looks like that was not the case, but the tip of balance it's now definitely tilted in one direction.
Few links with picture reports etc on the Meeting
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