UKC

I read on a review site that DMM are redesigning the Revolution Ice Screws with a crank on and they are being realised this year. Is this true?

Also has any one had any of the DMM Revolution Ice Screws and if so what did you think of them?

Thanks mb

In reply to mitchellbowen1990: Ive got one, theyre really good. Ive got a mixture of different screws (BD turbo express, grivel, DMMs) and ive found the DMM one bites the fastest out of all of them (despite my turbo express' being newer). If they did put a crank on them, i'd certain by some

In reply to mitchellbowen1990:

I've got a few and rate them highly. I also made a crank out of a bit of fencing wire (petzl make one, but they want £28 for said bit of bent wire). With that, they're very fast to place. Additionally, if you get the ppsition of the placement right, you can just spin them in with the palm of your hand (but you can do that with any screw, except that the DMM screws catch your gloves less than most)

In reply to mitchellbowen1990:

They bite better because they're made of thinner tube and the handle is a pure joy to use. It's just so ergonomically brilliant as it is ... A crank thingy would simply make it perfect.

Dave

In reply to mitchellbowen1990: DMM had a thing on their website about 'redesigned for winter 2009 with handle!'. That, as you can tell, was a while ago, but I've seen no sign of the handle. With the current exchange rates I'd guess DMM might be able to undercut the competition too perhaps?

In reply to mitchellbowen1990:
The new screw will be called the evolution, and if it bites as well as the revolution, keeps the lovely smooth eye for running rope through, and has a crank similar to the Grivel 360s it could be close to perfect. Only the new BD turbo expresses bite as well.

In reply to mitchellbowen1990:
The Evolution ice screw was in their 2009 catalogue
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/uploads/documents/DMM_Catalogue_2009-10%5Blow%20... page 23.
but never got released and then wasn't in the 2010 catalogue.
I remember something came up about it on the forums a while back and Simon Marsh (I think) answered a few questions, if you have a search about you may find the old thread.
I'm surprised someone from DMM hasn't found this thread yet and used it to start the hype if they are coming out this year.

In reply to damowilk: When would you run the rope through the eye? When you can't do an an abalakov to abseil off?

In reply to iksander:
Can't say I ever have, but in the theoretical situation where I wanted to escape ab off in a hurry, leaving it behind. In the past, though, have always made an Abalakov and admit its an unlikely scenario.

In reply to mitchellbowen1990:

In Reply to various posts in this thread.
Yes we have prototyped and tested a 'handled 'version of the Revolution Ice Screw a couple of years ago, but never actually brought it to market. There are several reasons for this but the most relevant one was the difficulty in sourcing the tube to machine the screws from. As has been mentioned, the Revolutions did bite very well, and sourcing the correct material, and machining and honing that material was the way that we achieved this, so anything less would have been a retrograde step.
However we have now overcome the sourcing problem and are working on a handled version which we would like to show at the earliest possible moment, but it is unlikely that this will be before Feruary 2011, to allow for a thorough testing regime.

Chris Rowlands
Brand Manager DMM

In reply to Chris Rowlands - DMM:

Hi Chris, interesting stuff. I think Simon Marsh mentioned on an older thread that DMM screws were by far the best at biting/penetrating, something to do with the way machined? or some finishing afterwards? If you have a few minutes I'd love to hear a bit more i.e. how does DMM screw finishing technique differ from the competition? If it's true I'd certainly pay a little more for them, just interested to know the differnce really. cheers in advance!

In reply to d508934:
In my experience Revolutions have been cheaper than the competition. They do bite better. They are polished perfectly down the tube which makes a huge difference.
The big shortcoming on really steep ice is the feeling you get (thank f$%k) from a handled screw that once it bites it just wizzes in. with the revolution you still have a bit of nervous work to do.

In reply to iksander: you can rig abseils where you can retrieve the screws. Not sure how but pat littlejohn knew and taught mick fowler how to do it on a route they did.

In reply to G Graham:

I've got some BD and grivel screws that are pretty well polished on the inside, but I've got no DMM screw to compare with. would be intersted to know if they are genuinely smoother and if this leads to better/easier placement. can't find at the moment the trhead where Simon mentioned that DMM screws were definitely better to place.

In reply to smithaldo:
You wouldn't run it through the eye for this. a prussik cord is wrapped around the screw which isn't fully wound in. The rope is draped over the screw and the prussik unwinds the screw as the rope is pulled down.
If there is ice, an abolakov is they way to go. I don't think they knew about abolakovs

In reply to mitchellbowen1990:

at the sharp end its about getting the screws in - biting is fairly irrelevant if the spinning is laborious.

i think dmm has a fine product - but without a handle they dont challenge. look at the way bd turbos sell, negligible compared to their handled brothers, even when its a $10 difference.

even tho im sure ice screws are a minority item in any catalogue, i think a dmm with a good handle will give bd and grivel a race for the prize.
...but till then i wont be buying any.

and yeah, the retrievable screw trick - heard about it but never done it and hope i never have to. sounds both dire and fiddly.
would be interested to try it without abbing of it tho. AK describes it in worrying detail somewhere.