/ NEWS: Rockfall on Lundy - Classic Hard Routes Affected

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UKC News - on 16 Sep 2010
Lundy Rockfall, 5 kbLundy, the small granite encrusted island off the North Coast of Devon is home to hundreds of classic sea cliff climbs.

"Sometime over the winter of 2009 a major rockfall occurred in Starship Zawn, Lundy Island. A number of huge blocks would appear to have 'dropped' out from the heart of the wall..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57819

In reply to UKC News:

The jammed 'sheild' with a huge block sat on it looks a little suspect too!

Chris
Neil Foster - on 16 Sep 2010
In reply to UKC News:

I can't say I'm surprised.

That initial traverse on Araucaria - so called because it goes (or more accurately, went) across and down, for any Grauniad readers out there! - was quite terrifying. You were hand traversing the top of a massive beam of granite which appeared to be completely detached, apart from the pressure holding it in place at either end. The sections of that beam now form a not-so-neat pile on the floor of the zawn (and Araucaria joins the ever-growing list of routes I have done which subsequently fell down!).

As for Amygdala still being climbable, whilst the leaning wall which forms that substance of the route appears unaffected, the demise of the Araucaria beam means you will no longer be able to get to it...

...or at least that is how it looks to me.... (Paul?, Nic?)

Neil
Gorrilla on 16 Sep 2010 - dyn161101.shef.ac.uk
In reply to UKC News:

If it happened in Winter 2009, why is this news? Slow news week....
jon on 16 Sep 2010
In reply to Neil Foster:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
>(and Araucaria joins the ever-growing list of routes I have done which subsequently fell down!).
>
> Neil

... and that have fallen down BEFORE you could get your hands on them... Equilibrium St Govans...!

sutty on 16 Sep 2010
In reply to Neil Foster:

Didn't the big block on Crucible on Cwm Sillin fall down as well years ago, altering the route?
Neil Foster - on 16 Sep 2010
In reply to sutty:

How did you know I'd never been there, Sutty?!

Neil
sutty on 16 Sep 2010
In reply to Neil Foster:

Knowing some of your history, I thought it may be one cliff you missed but was not sure. Didn't think you want to Wales much and many other crags with plenty to go at with easier access.
mozzer - on 16 Sep 2010
In reply to Neil Foster:

What a shame! Both routes looked awesome. Not that I could attempt either, but they looked mindblowing. Great effort climbing them when they were possible!

Quite a lot of rockfall last year, what with Exorcist as well.
Simon Cardy on 16 Sep 2010
In reply to Neil Foster:

The beam looks as if its almost certainly gone to me.
El3ctroFuzz - on 17 Sep 2010
In reply to Gorilla: Im with Gorilla!
In reply to El3ctroFuzz:

I would think that the rockfall (winter 2009/10) has only just been spotted as the bird bans have only just come off and not many climbers will have visited this zawn (or the island) until perhaps the last 6 weeks or so.

Cheers

Mark
Paul Ha on 18 Sep 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Spot on Mark, my brother and I picked up on the rockfall whilst out on our trip in August and contary to some peoples opinion (particularly my wife!) I do not live on the island!
Paul
El3ctroFuzz - on 19 Sep 2010
In reply to Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor:

Good point Mark :)

Yeh, i guess so. Im not familiar with Lundy.

If this crag is off the beaten track, then your right, its very unlikely to have been spotted.

But, it just sounded like, since the rough date of the rockfall was known, then it must have been then.. Whos to say it didnt come down in the bird ban season?
Tom V - on 19 Sep 2010
In reply to UKC News:

With apologies to Nick White - how many "classic" routes have been affected?
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Paul Ha on 20 Sep 2010
In reply to Tom V:
Hi Tom, yes take your point, never sure what constitutes 'classic' but Araucaria had seen a relatively large number of ascents for a climb of this grade on Lundy and Solaris was'nt far behind. As you know most people don't stray much off the well-trodden path of 15- 20 select routes so its all relative.
Paul

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