/ THE LOWDOWN: Video: Magnus Midtboe climbs 9b

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Björn Pohl - UKC - on 04 Oct 2010
Blood Redemption, 4 kbMagnus Midtboe is having his best fall ever:

- Ali-Hulk Sit extension, 9b, 2nd ascent
- 5th in lead and 3rd over all in the European Champs

- Blood redemption, 8C, First ascent
Now the question everyone is pondering is whether he will continue his streak of success by winning the Nordic...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58139
ChrisBrooke - on 04 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Amazing bit of climbing there. Some bizarre 'technical considerations' with the rope-work, but the moves looked incredible. Lovely flow and precision. What a memory he must have!
C-nunez - on 04 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: leading while clipped in with a krab, pretty suspect ay?
Murd on 04 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Amazing stuff
imagist - on 04 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

'having his best fall ever'
we're all American now :)
xican - on 04 Oct 2010
In reply to imagist: yeah i know i was expecting him to fall horrendously and be alright and then i read it again...
stimpy on 04 Oct 2010 - cpe-76-91-20-178.socal.res.rr.com
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Best part of that video was the 3 seconds of Sasha, hands down... Also, where's the mono campus?!?!? Did I just miss it or is there some tragic alternate beta?
mark_wellin - on 04 Oct 2010
In reply to stimpy:

i spotted the mono and clenched in anticipation at the coming move, only for him to butch past it to a better hold.. how inconsiderate!
RupertD - on 04 Oct 2010
In reply to stimpy:
> Also, where's the mono campus?!?!? Did I just miss it or is there some tragic alternate beta?

I watched it twice to see if I'd missed it... is it definitely on this route?
Robbie_Phillips - on 05 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Thats amazing! I tried the final section which was hard enough at 8b+/c but to link it all together is pretty insane... Just one thing though... the start of the route is different to what i was shown when at the cave. I thought it started low cave left through a Font 8B+ boulder and then into the full thing... that traverse he starts on is Font 7B? Maybe it was a different route I was shown? Dani Andrada has tonnes of variations in there, probably 9c or something : P
Tim Broughtonshaw on 05 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Christ ...he makes it look like a path. Saw him in august when i was out in rodellar and he was casually crushing 8a's/8a+'s onsight with consumate ease. Utter beast.


Cheers
Tim
Gordon Stainforth - on 05 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Mindboggling. He doesn't even look particularly tired at the end!
smallerrich - on 05 Oct 2010
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:
He looks bored by the end, haha
hobblingfool - on 05 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Truly amazing climbing, I have never felt so pathetically weak than I do watching this. My first thought about this was that it would be great to see Fred Rouhling do this route, looks like it is his style and if he could do it then he may get a little of the respect he deserves. Magnus is in amazing form though.
anonymouse - on 05 Oct 2010
In reply to smallerrich:
> He looks bored by the end, haha

ah. I mistook boredom for focus.
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: That's quite amazing - he makes the holds all look big! Do you have any idea how long he had to work it before sending? I'm amazed at the complexity of the climbing so wondered how long it takes to work out every little foot readjustment or kneedrop in such a complex route.
Dave Garnett - on 06 Oct 2010
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

That might just be the most impressive display of endurance, concentration and downright finesse I've ever seen.

I'm not quite sure whether I'm inspired to get straight down to the wall or crushed by my complete uselessness!
hillman - on 06 Oct 2010
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) That's quite amazing - he makes the holds all look big! Do you have any idea how long he had to work it before sending? I'm amazed at the complexity of the climbing so wondered how long it takes to work out every little foot readjustment or kneedrop in such a complex route.

From his blog (www.magnusmidtboe.com) you get som of the answers:
August 29th, 2010
Finally did it! More than three weeks of working the route in the ali baba cave. I am so relieved! I only had one and a half days left in Rodellar - perfect timing. I was so close yesterday, so I knew that I could do it today if I wasn't too tired. I rested the whole day as usual and I did it on my first try of the day. I felt very strong - it didn't feel as desperate as before! I also had good conditions. There was a nice breeze for the first time in a while. I have never put so much time towards a climb before. It sure payed off in the end. For those of you who have seen Dani Andrada on film trying the route, I do it a little different. I climbed the first part without a rope, but with a harness. When I got to the rest at the end of ali baba sit start I got a rope clipped into my harness with a carabiner. Dani got someone to put the harness, with the rope on him.
As far as I know it is the second ascent of the route, and the second confirmed 9b in the world!

Credit to Sasha for coming with me to the cave every evening at prime time!

Tomorrow I will go back to the cave to get some better photos and maybe even film. We will wake up early so that we can get some onsight climbing in at piscineta first!
Will upload more photos and info soon...

Tim Broughtonshaw on 06 Oct 2010
In reply to hillman:
> (In reply to TobyA)
> [...]
>
>
> Tomorrow I will go back to the cave to get some better photos and maybe even film. We will wake up early so that we can get some onsight climbing in at piscineta first!
> Will upload more photos and info soon...


That explains more the emotionless finish. He had already done it and was just repeating it for the camera.

Cheers
Tim
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Paul Crusher R - on 06 Oct 2010
Was trying to count the jugs but got bored by the hands off rest.

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