/ NEWS: Lucinda Whittaker - Gritstone E8
Lucinda is no gritstone beginner having previously climbed a couple of bold E7s and many hard boulder problems such as Brad Pit (Font 7c+) at Stanage...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58675
Has anyone apart from Tim Emmett taken the "big fall"?
Top marks Lucinda. Really well done.
> Has anyone apart from Tim Emmett taken the "big fall"?
Didn't Emmett downclimb to a point where he felt comfortable jumping off and jumped off? (And didn't Dawes do that before the FA too?). Whereas Pickford went for the final move around the arete at the top and barndoored off.
Actually I think you are correct!
Preposterous tales is such a brilliant book.
The impression I got from the book was that Emmett started downclimbing to reduce the distance he would fall (and therefore would be slightly less likely to hit the ledge) but was soon off - it was hardly a casual jump! I think Dawes envisaged the belayer jumping off but Emmett's attempt was the first time the theory was tested.
Classic quote! From memory:
Emmett: "I don't think I'm up for it man"
Gresham: "What?! You've GOT to be up for it!"
Pickford must be ok - I saw him and Tim Emmett climbing at TCA tonight looking bloomin' strong!
I like the way the article is illustrated with a photo of a chap climbing the route in a better style... sly.
> I like the way the article is illustrated with a photo of a chap climbing the route in a better style... sly.
Shutup. There's no hidden agenda.
Good effort Lucinda. Have any other ladys headpointed E8?
Read the article.
> Read the article.
> What, again?
It mentions which other ladies have climbed E8 ;)
Sorry, that was me being very subtly ironic. I think it's a strange choice of picture which, from a certain point of view, might seem to undermine the newsworthiness of the story.
> It mentions which other ladies have climbed E8 ;)
Oh. Yes. Hard to know what Roberto was talking about. But yes, me and my speed reading...
As for headpointing the route, its just my style. It's the way I have always done things. But I am aware of the impact on the amazing gritstone so I always have as few top roped goes as possible. I'm sure in the future some of the young ladies climbing amazingly well will come along and attempt these things ground up etc, but for now its another little step forward for the UK girls. Believe you me I would love to be as awesome a climber as Pete Robins and walk along and flash the route, incredible achievement, but I know my own limits!
As for Adam he's a really close friend of my husband and mine, I saw him last night and he was really pleased for me.
Thanks again, Lu
Well done Lucinda.
Pendantic note: there's a word missing from the third paragraph, it should be "Lucinda ... is now one of very few women to have climbed E8." (Or maybe even "the very few" - anyway it isn't right as it is.)
Good effort....but do some of the interview questions need to be quite so 'basic'.
Call me old fashioned, but does Jack really need to ask "...and was he sh**ing his pants?"
Don't knock yourself Lucinda, growing the balls to headpoint it would do me fine.
don't be so casually sexist ;)
> Don't knock yourself Lucinda, growing the balls to headpoint it would do me fine.
I second that and would like to add at Lucinda needs to remember all the skill she has and all the training she has put in to be able to climb so well. Great effort. Climbing in uk is still too masculine. Ace to see some girls doing very hard routes :)
Great effort! I love the context the interview gives to the ascent i.e. kids are on the horizon so I've got to get this done! Inspiring stuff.
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