/ NEWS: Lucinda Whittaker - Gritstone E8

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UKC News - on 03 Nov 2010
Lucinda Whittaker bouldering in Northumberland on 'Purely Belter'., 4 kbLucinda Whittaker has climbed the classic arete test-piece of End of the Affair (E8) at Curbar in the Peak District.

Lucinda is no gritstone beginner having previously climbed a couple of bold E7s and many hard boulder problems such as Brad Pit (Font 7c+) at Stanage...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58675

highclimber - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News: Well done Lucinda.
monkeyboyraw - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News: Awesome, its fantastic to have such strong female climbing role models for future generations (ie my daughter). Well done Lucinda.
James Oswald - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Awesome.
Has anyone apart from Tim Emmett taken the "big fall"?
James
Mord - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Top marks Lucinda. Really well done.
M
nathanlee - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to James Oswald: Dave Pickford - Had to be airlifted to hospital - The story is on the inside cover of the latest issue (Nov 2010) of Climb :)
Peter Walker on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to James Oswald:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> Awesome.
> Has anyone apart from Tim Emmett taken the "big fall"?
> James

Didn't Emmett downclimb to a point where he felt comfortable jumping off and jumped off? (And didn't Dawes do that before the FA too?). Whereas Pickford went for the final move around the arete at the top and barndoored off.
James Oswald - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to Peter Walker:
Actually I think you are correct!
Preposterous tales is such a brilliant book.
James
Michael Gordon - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to Peter Walker:

The impression I got from the book was that Emmett started downclimbing to reduce the distance he would fall (and therefore would be slightly less likely to hit the ledge) but was soon off - it was hardly a casual jump! I think Dawes envisaged the belayer jumping off but Emmett's attempt was the first time the theory was tested.

Classic quote! From memory:
Emmett: "I don't think I'm up for it man"
Gresham: "What?! You've GOT to be up for it!"

fleapitfan - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Pickford must be ok - I saw him and Tim Emmett climbing at TCA tonight looking bloomin' strong!
anonymouse - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:
I like the way the article is illustrated with a photo of a chap climbing the route in a better style... sly.
Jonny2vests - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to anonymouse:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> I like the way the article is illustrated with a photo of a chap climbing the route in a better style... sly.

Shutup. There's no hidden agenda.

Good effort Lucinda. Have any other ladys headpointed E8?
Robertostallioni - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to jonny2vests
Read the article.
Morgan Woods - on 03 Nov 2010
In reply to anonymouse: Why do you like that? Are you making a comment about the style of this ascent in particular?
Jonny2vests - on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to Robertostallioni:
> In reply to jonny2vests
> Read the article.

What, again?
stewieatb on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to Robertostallioni)
> [...]
>
> What, again?

It mentions which other ladies have climbed E8 ;)
anonymouse - on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to Morgan Woods:
> (In reply to anonymouse) Why do you like that? Are you making a comment about the style of this ascent in particular?

Sorry, that was me being very subtly ironic. I think it's a strange choice of picture which, from a certain point of view, might seem to undermine the newsworthiness of the story.
Jonny2vests - on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to stewieatb:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> It mentions which other ladies have climbed E8 ;)

Oh. Yes. Hard to know what Roberto was talking about. But yes, me and my speed reading...
neil the weak - on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to anonymouse: Yes, presumably Adam Long will be along shortly to remind Lucinda that routes which have been flashed should not be headpointed.....
LucindaWhittaker on 04 Nov 2010 - customer8243.pool1.Mansfield-NOT6900-BAS0001.orangehomedsl.co.uk
Hi all, thanks for all the positive comments. I'm really pleased to have done the route.

As for headpointing the route, its just my style. It's the way I have always done things. But I am aware of the impact on the amazing gritstone so I always have as few top roped goes as possible. I'm sure in the future some of the young ladies climbing amazingly well will come along and attempt these things ground up etc, but for now its another little step forward for the UK girls. Believe you me I would love to be as awesome a climber as Pete Robins and walk along and flash the route, incredible achievement, but I know my own limits!
As for Adam he's a really close friend of my husband and mine, I saw him last night and he was really pleased for me.

Thanks again, Lu
ads.ukclimbing.com
fimm on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Well done Lucinda.

Pendantic note: there's a word missing from the third paragraph, it should be "Lucinda ... is now one of very few women to have climbed E8." (Or maybe even "the very few" - anyway it isn't right as it is.)
Gambit - on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to LucindaWhittaker: Great effort Lu, are there any pictures or video's coming out of you on the route?
Fraser on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Good effort....but do some of the interview questions need to be quite so 'basic'.

Call me old fashioned, but does Jack really need to ask "...and was he sh**ing his pants?"
Jonny2vests - on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to LucindaWhittaker:

Don't knock yourself Lucinda, growing the balls to headpoint it would do me fine.
Skyfall - on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to jonny2vests:
> growing the balls to headpoint it would do me fine.

don't be so casually sexist ;)
pigeonjim on 04 Nov 2010
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to LucindaWhittaker)
>
> Don't knock yourself Lucinda, growing the balls to headpoint it would do me fine.

I second that and would like to add at Lucinda needs to remember all the skill she has and all the training she has put in to be able to climb so well. Great effort. Climbing in uk is still too masculine. Ace to see some girls doing very hard routes :)
In reply to UKC News:

Great effort! I love the context the interview gives to the ascent i.e. kids are on the horizon so I've got to get this done! Inspiring stuff.

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