UKC

NEWS: VIDEOS: Jordan and Pete Tearing up the Grit

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 UKC News 18 Nov 2010
Pete Whittaker on Snap Decision E7 6b Ilkley. Photo:Alex Ekins , 3 kbPete Whittaker and Jordan Buys have been taking advantage of the cold weather and getting a whole load of hard grit routes ticked.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58926
Parrys_apprentice 18 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:

I thought this headline was another reference to a spat between Mr Andre and Katie Price.

Or that they'd got back together through their mutual passion for climbing.
 Adam Lincoln 18 Nov 2010
Couple of E6's missing from Jordan's list.
Voyage to the outer limits (Flash) and In a pickle (Ground up)
Also a first ascent at The Roost, Why port pearl, an E6 6c.

 ahaynes 18 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:
I'm not trying to take anything away from the climbers, and I certainly couldn't climb those routes - no way, but what's with all the pre-placed gear? I haven't started doing trad yet, but in my *very* inexperienced view, I thought all grear should be placed on lead. Please can someone explain this to me - it's a serious question not an attempt to start and arguement.
Thanks and best wishes
Andy Haynes
 ahaynes 18 Nov 2010
In reply to ahaynes: ....and please excuse my spelling - didn't check before clicking.
 Tyler 18 Nov 2010
In reply to ahaynes:

I suspect its just a practical thing, i.e. climber falls off, lowers down, pulls ropes and then has another attempt. Going around and abbing down between attempts is just too much faff and probably doesn't materially affect the ascent.
 Adam Lincoln 18 Nov 2010
In reply to ahaynes:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> I'm not trying to take anything away from the climbers, and I certainly couldn't climb those routes - no way, but what's with all the pre-placed gear?

As far as the Balance video goes, see my post here.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=432813&v=1#x6111018

As for the others, again, when you are flashing routes, and not wanting to second them, who ever goes up first puts it in, and then rather than abbing off, the person who goes second will just clip that same insitu gear. Usually though, only if the gear is easy to clip/place/doesn't effect the difficulty of the climb. Also,

 Green Fuse 18 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Did I understand correctly that amongst those impressive E6 and E7 flashes Jordan struggled most on The Sphinx (E5) with a fall and a tough top out ?
 TobyA 18 Nov 2010
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Hi Adam. How does Pete get the rope on White Lines? Is it two different ascents edited together meaning he had to do the terrifying start twice?!
 Adam Lincoln 18 Nov 2010
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln) Hi Adam. How does Pete get the rope on White Lines? Is it two different ascents edited together meaning he had to do the terrifying start twice?!

No, he certainly didn't do that start twice, that is the hard bit! Jordan scrambled up to the left of him and threw it over.

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 18 Nov 2010
In reply to Green Fuse:

And on Balance, he had two goes at the big stretch on Boggart Lh and did the rest 1st go!


Chris
 Green Fuse 18 Nov 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Sorry Chris- are you saying that he did find The Sphinx harder than the other routes to top out ?
 TobyA 18 Nov 2010
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Cheers Adam - that makes sense, although I impressed that it easier to tie in halfway up than just have the rope on already. The start must be utterly horrendous!
 Adam Lincoln 18 Nov 2010
In reply to TobyA:
> The start must be utterly horrendous!

Its more the move he is looking worried on, to get to the break at the ledge. A fall from here would be nasty.

 IainWhitehouse 18 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News: That's a lovely looking orange rope Jordan is using.
 Chris the Tall 18 Nov 2010
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Great footage - the finish to The Bottom Line is the sort of thing I have nightmares about !
 ahaynes 18 Nov 2010
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Sorry to have posted a question that's already been discussed - I should have searched first.
Thanks very much for replying.
Best wishes
Andy
 Kafoozalem 18 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News: Thoroughly enjoyed these videos. Keep 'em coming Adam.
 rubben 19 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News:
Been watching Adam's videos on these guys (great vids by the way)...pretty blimmin' impressive! Keep it up, and keep them coming Adam!!!
I've noted you're climbing pretty well too!
 Rich Guest 19 Nov 2010
In reply to rubben:
> (In reply to UKC News)

> Been watching Adam's videos on these guys (great vids by the way)

Nice footage. Dodgy music in that Brimham one... (comes across like a tampax ad), but I didn't reckon much to that particular line either.

Jordon's got some extreme talent. Makes everything look so easy, it diminishes the tension a bit!
I kind of preferred the Onsight footage of Leo on BiI, despite him not making it first go (or possibly because of!)

 Dave Foster 19 Nov 2010
In reply to UKC News: Well done guys. Great stuff to watch, agree with someone's comment about Jordan making everything look so easy. Makes you think you could just nip out and flash an E6 at Curbar! Got to love those top outs at Brimham although he made it look a bit easier than James Macaffie on Onsight, and that's saying something.
 Adam Lincoln 19 Nov 2010
In reply to Cragrat Rich:
> (In reply to rubben)
> [...]
>
> [...]
>
> Nice footage. Dodgy music in that Brimham one

Can't please everyone with music choice.

Thanks for all the comments guys, much appreciated.

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