In reply to ahaynes:
> (In reply to UKC News)
> I'm not trying to take anything away from the climbers, and I certainly couldn't climb those routes - no way, but what's with all the pre-placed gear?
As far as the Balance video goes, see my post here.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=432813&v=1#x6111018
As for the others, again, when you are flashing routes, and not wanting to second them, who ever goes up first puts it in, and then rather than abbing off, the person who goes second will just clip that same insitu gear. Usually though, only if the gear is easy to clip/place/doesn't effect the difficulty of the climb. Also,