UKC

Ice axe?

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Climbwhenready 30 Jan 2011
hello, I am looking for a ice axe that can be used on its own for alpine routes and when I want to go ice climbing I can double it up.I have looked at the petzl qaurk and think it looks amazing and the specifications are just right! However do you know of any more ice axes that can proform how I want them to?

Cheers, Al
 jimjimjim 30 Jan 2011
In reply to Climbwhenready: If you do a search you should find loads of info on the subject, some will say get dmm cirque, some will say get a dmm fly as well loads of other suggestions. The quark are a good axe but very expensive and if you get one you may as well get two. It's all about your plunging/climbing ratio
 Danzig 30 Jan 2011
In reply to Climbwhenready: Get yourself off to a shop and have a play and settle on what feels best in the hand, the weight issue will be entirely on what you think you feel comfy with, Quarks will set you back 1.1kg (pair) and Flys 1.5kg - (try weighting your pack when loaded as if you're carrying your new set of axes and see how it feels). Quarks can be stripped down making them easier for lower grade routes and gullies and built back up for more technical stuff. I prefer the extra weight in the swing on the DMM, and at nearly £100 cheaper is kinder on the wallet! All personal preference really and how good your finances are!
Climbwhenready 30 Jan 2011
In reply to Danzig: yeah. too true, I had a look at dmm they do some sweet sruff but was not sure if some of their axes could do alpine...
 Mountain Llama 30 Jan 2011
In reply to Climbwhenready: Hi Al

Take a look at grivel air tech evolution - they come in different lengths to suit classic apline routes, ie climbing with single axe but there also do a matching hammer.

DMM fly may also fit the bill but these are more climbing orientated.

Personally I have a cheap (£40), light weight walking axe (grivel munro) which I use for classic alpine routes and winter walking plus a set of climbing specific axes (BD vipers)for everythig else.

IMHO being able to plunge the axe shaft into hard snow may be a factor to consider if you are new to this game, as this offers a great deal of re-assurance on steep traverses -assuming slope is not bullet hard ice! Plunging a climbing specific axe (quark etc) is a lot harder than a straight forward walking axe. Also cutting steps with a quark or a viper would be do-able but not fun!

In the end most people either accept the compromise or buy a walking axe and climbing axes.

HTH Dave

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