/ Climb Magazine says OK to manufactured routes!

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Mr Plow on 11 Mar 2011
Or at least doesn't attempt to cast any shadow over a manufactured route on yorkshire limestone in aprils review of 2010's goings on. Does anyone else think this is a bit odd?

Can I go and put a set of 40 bolt-on holds on rainshadow now to bring it down to my level?
PeterM - on 11 Mar 2011
In reply to Mr Plow:

Surely anything that's bolted is manufactured..?
Quiddity - on 11 Mar 2011
In reply to Mr Plow:

Can you give a bit more detail for those of us who haven't read it.
jkarran - on 11 Mar 2011
In reply to Mr Plow:

For the benefit of those of us who don't buy the comics, what are you on about?

jk
Michael Ryan - on 11 Mar 2011
In reply to Mr Plow:
> Or at least doesn't attempt to cast any shadow over a manufactured route on yorkshire limestone in aprils review of 2010's goings on. Does anyone else think this is a bit odd?

No not odd at all. It is in a report by Kevin Avery who is reporting about a route climbed by Jordan Buys.

So no, Climb Magazine or their editors do not comment whether it is OK to manufacture routes/create holds.

Kevin writes:

'Jordan set about working the unclimbed extension to The Sound of One Hand Slapping, itself a short 7c. The Jordanator eventually succumbed to a powerful and bouldery 8b sequence using a drilled pocket/seam to gain a heuco pocket and a final testing sequence to the belay.'

It also makes no accusation to who drilled the pocket/seam.

That extension did have bolt-on holds for a while (1992/93). I put them there and they were promptly removed, thank goodness. I was the the first ascensionist of The Sound of One Hand Slapping.

Mick

Michael Ryan - on 11 Mar 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:

The route is at Hollywood Bowl, Giggleswick, North Yorkshire.
Dirk Didler - on 11 Mar 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to Mr Plow)
> [...]
>
> No not odd at all. It is in a report by Kevin Avery who is reporting about a route climbed by Jordan Buys.
>
> So no, Climb Magazine or their editors do not comment whether it is OK to manufacture routes/create holds.
>
> Kevin writes:
>
> 'Jordan set about working the unclimbed extension to The Sound of One Hand Slapping, itself a short 7c. The Jordanator eventually succumbed to a powerful and bouldery 8b sequence using a drilled pocket/seam to gain a heuco pocket and a final testing sequence to the belay.'
>
> It also makes no accusation to who drilled the pocket/seam.
>
> That extension did have bolt-on holds for a while (1992/93). I put them there and they were promptly removed, thank goodness. I was the the first ascensionist of The Sound of One Hand Slapping.
>
> Mick

Does this mean we can now dry tool there?..........OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO i'm now going to roast myself over a log fire:)
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Michael Ryan - on 11 Mar 2011
In reply to Dirk Didler:

and so you should, immeadiately.

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