UKC

I climbed (what I think is?) the first ascent of the roof and overhanging groove above the final stance of The Snake (to the right of the blunt arete of Mongoose). It was completely covered in ivy until I noticed it while abbing down Grim Wall and cleaned it a few weeks ago to reveal an elegant shallow groove with a thin crack running up the back of it. It does have an old peg halfway up the groove though, not sure when/who that's from, could anyone enlighten me?

I may be looking at it through rose tinted glasses because its my first new route (hopefully), but I reckon it could be a future classic. I headpointed it over a couple of sessions, I think its around 7b+, but I've not really climbed enough routes to know much about grading. I've given it E6 6b, because to onsight I can imagine it being quite hard, but then again Tremadog is notorious for sandbag grades so maybe just very hard E5, I don't know. Regardless of grade the climbing itself is awesome, with interesting moves up the corner to a brilliant pull through the roof, then the climbing up the groove is really absorbing, and it finishes perfectly past a big sloping shelf and a mantle for glory!

Anyway, I'd love for someone to go and have a look/play on it/repeat it and tell me what they think. If anyone wants to go for a flash or whatever I'll happily oblige with beta and/or a belay.

Cheers, Mikey G

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

So, it starts up the "pod" of The Snake but carries straight up when The Snake sneaks off around the corner to the left? Sounds a good addition!

There were originally quite a lot of aid routes at Tremadog. If the peg was really ancient, it might have been one of these or an attempt. The old Snowdon South CC guide had details of several of these.

Chris (fellow Vector Buttress pioneer!)

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

I'm pretty sure Twid did something around there at that sort of grade about 10-15 years ago, not sure exactly where it goes though, yours could well be new. I'm sure the proper Tremadog wads will know (not suggesting you aren't one Chris!). I'll try asking Big Tim who has a photgraphic memory for new routes.

In reply to Mike Goldthorp: Try sending to here, I'm sure it will be sorted out
http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/nr-wales.html

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

I see you've found my peg...! I don't think Tremadog is notorious for sandbag grades - on the contrary I think it's relatively soft. Only kidding about the peg, though I do half remember seeing a line thereabouts, but at that time relatively short pitches like this were often ignored, due to the (admittedly dwindling) supply of longer new routes. Did you try asking Eric if he could shed any light on it? As Chris says there were a few old aid routes at Tremadog in the Dark Ages. Cretainly Rowland Edwards, who first climbed that part of the wall with Void, would be a candidate. Try asking Mark...

In reply to jon:

'Cretainly'! What a delightful typo...

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

Congratulations on your first new route Mike. I bet it's a cracker, and what a buttress to choose to open your account!

I first spotted this line more than 25 years ago, and have peered across at it as I abbed down Grim Wall every time since. Of course I never knew just what lurked under that ivy, but I always suspected it would be something good, as you have proved. Just a shame I could never be bothered to take a closer look myself!

So, with that one gone, it just leaves one last decent Tremadog line that I know of. And this is one I did have a brief play on, back in 1987. I'm amazed no-one has finished it off since...

Neil

In reply to Chris Shorter:

No not quite, from the stance before the pod go straight up the corner to the big tooth and through the roof.

In reply to Neil Foster:

Cheers Neil, yeah several people I've spoken to had noticed the line but like you never followed the flirt to investigate, which I'm very grateful for

I was in disbelief when I stripped the ivy and it left such an amazing and really steep route with some great features and some interesting little gear placements. Well keen to discover some more hidden/overlooked gems!

In reply to Mike Goldthorp: Good work Mike; I guess we've all been peering at this line for years. I know Twid did have a closer look about 10 years ago and I think the peg is his.

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

Sounds good - no photos?

E

In reply to Enty: It was just me and Mikey at the crag unfortunately. I took some poor photos of him on top-rope and just before he set off on my phone. But was too busy concentrating on belaying to take any during the ascent.

Dunc

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

Sounds suspicious. Should change your name to Mike Simpson...



Good effort Mike, sounds good.

In reply to Franco Cookson:

Haha! Franco you're unbelievable. I think I need to start dictating my climbing around where the cameramen and photographers are, rather than waiting until the opportune time to do things.

Congratulations on your sponsorship anyway, you're a great public entertainer and an even better wind-up merchant, you certainly know how to get the vultures circling. Just need to work on your climbing now ey

Mikey

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

to sponsorship or death!

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

Ed Booth recently did the 2nd ascent (again headpoint) and has also suggested E6, and also said it's a great and worthwhile route (cheers ed!).

I don't know how often routes like this get repeated; I'm probably guilty of tending to just do established classics a lot of the time myself. But in future I'm going to make an effort to go and repeat more recent additions without the esteemed reputations; I imagine there are a lot of great routes which lie forgotten and rarely get repeated or see the attention they deserve. I highly recommend The Philtrum to anyone who's keen!

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

From that comment I invite people to suggest any worthwhile routes by the way!

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:

The Moose

In reply to Franco Cookson:


Which one, the Severe of the Hard Severe? (the only Mooses I could see in the logbooks).

I'll have to come over to those quarries that you claim have some good climbing on em and give some of them routes a try. Theres been whispers of a new E9 slab that some young mavericks been trying, but its all very hush hush!

In reply to Mike Goldthorp:


Very good effort!

Haven't got a clue what the deal is with this place and if it's banned over land disputes like Craig y Forwyn is, but could be worth finding out off someone? Could be some more hidden gems for ya Some guy who had originaly bolted it in the 90's told us about it at the Castle Inn last year.

http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/page/Craig+Bryn+Dulas

In reply to Mike Goldthorp and Franco Cookson

I think you two pros should go climbing together; Franco can do the bold pitches and Mikey the hard ones. I think you could become an unstoppable force in cutting edge hard trad climbing...

I could take some photos too, but im afraid ive not a camera for all those epic lobs

In reply to david morse:

I would love to, but I'm not actually very bold.

In reply to david morse:

I'd love to, but I'd probably get too boxed on the hard pitches to have anything left when I take over the lead on the bold pitches once Franco's fallen off em.

Also here's a link to the V12 news page, where you can find a topo and a little write-up on The Philtrum kindly done by Si Panton, as well as some info on Calum Muskett doing Rare Lichen (sweet effort), and some other cool bits n bobs!

http://news.v12outdoor.com/