/ NEWS: NEWSFLASH: E10 Ground Up for James Pearson

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UKC News - on 29 Apr 2011
James Pearson on The North Face Summit Series Road Trip in 2009, 3 kbJust in from James Pearson - almost flashes Muy Caliente! (E10) and gets it second go ground-up.

"I tried to Flash the route, this was the main reason for my trip to Pembroke and what I had been training for over the last few months..."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=61951
In reply to UKC News: Can I nip in and just say bloody good effort by James on this route.

Nice one James. Super run of form in Pembroke. Awesome to hear about.

Good luck to you for your next routes.

Jack
Crag Moose - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Awesome, good effort. Maybe one day for me!
Peter Walker on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC: Aye. One hopes that even Pearson's most persistent detractors will have to concede that it's a bloody impressive effort.
James Oswald - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Amazing effort.
The most groundbreaking ascent of the last year?
James
Quarryboy - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Wow that's an almost Godly effort from James well done!
Flashy - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Astonishing that people are even attempting (let alone almost succeeding!) to onsight E10s. Very impressive stuff; really inspiring to see people creating a progression in style on hard routes like this. Bravo.
mgeek - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Awesome! This is surely one of the most impressive trad ascents in uk to date!
GuyVG - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: wow
Jimbo W on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Great stuff James, well done!
And thanks UKC for breaking the boredom of a day where everyone and everything is orientated about some stupid wedding with some proper news!
tony on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

This is quite a big deal! Well done James - a fantastic performance.
chris j on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Great effort from James. I like the description of Dave as Socttish super-climber as well - does he wear his underpants on the outside or something? ;)
@ndyM@rsh@ll - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Good stuff.
Ben Briggs - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Very impressive! Have many other E10's been ground up'ed?
DrGav - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Video of Tim on the route was inspirational. Amazing effort from James.
Duncan Campbell - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiceeee. Awesome effort F8b ain't easy and it looks dangerous that so mega good effort! Mission Impossible next up?

Inspirational. DC
MJ - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell:

"Mission Impossible next up?"

The E5 at St Govans which fell down a number of years back?

How about The Big Issue on sight?


jas wood - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News: "...but sadly I fell on the very last hard move..." does this mean he took the long lob or is the last hard move after the crucial gear ?

Awesome effort fella - surely from a trad point of veiw the next step would be one of the birkett/macloed numbers ?
James Oswald - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to jas wood:
Mmmm maybe - maybe he'll go back and have another go at Rhapsody.
It would be great if he did Echo Wall...
James
johncoxmysteriously - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to jas wood:

>does this mean he took the long lob or is the last hard move after the crucial gear ?

The former.

Very fine effort, but from the comfort of my armchair, I wouldn't be surprised if the grade of this route didn't stand. I had the impression Macleod was being a bit polite when he repeated it.

jcm
Quarryboy - on 29 Apr 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Is it fair to say that its easier than the walk of life. Since he got up it second go wares I got the impression that he invested several weeks of work in TWOL Although MC is obviously physically more difficult then TWOL I heard that TWOL was f8a+ but the start is very dangerous since its 15 meters of unprotected climbing with a Brittish 6c move. Anyway Its all irrelevant to me at that level. I cant contemplate how hard an E9 or 10 is.
Wee Davie - on 30 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

That is impressive!
Kemics - on 30 Apr 2011
In reply to Quarryboy:

JP had been living in Europe, doing serious dedicated training. From what little i've read he seems to be saying he feels like he's improved massively. So not really fair to compare the ascent for a measure of what's harder, as he's now a different climber.

I was under the impression MC was soft E10. Though one man's soft E10 is is anothers very hard E9 i guess...i dunno. Cant climb either :) Just the fact you have a super long run out....which has very real deck potential if you fall just before placing the gear for me suggests E10.
The Pylon King on 30 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:

What does ground up and flash mean?
Quarryboy - on 30 Apr 2011
In reply to Pylon King:

Flash is were you have some prior knowledge about the route but haven't tried any of the moves before. -If you've seen one of your mates do a route or they've told you loads of specifics about it or you've abseiled down it not to try any of the moves but just to work out were the line of the route is and clean stuff.

Ground up is pretty much redpointing were you attempt a route from the ground without having any practice on a toprope and then fail which means you just try again from the ground and keep doing so until you do it without ever trying it on a toprope.

But in your terms Flash is type A and Ground up is type B
Tim Emmett on 30 Apr 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Brilliant effort James, well done! It's great to see the next generation finally applying their talent to Tradition climbing. Exciting times. Did you enjoy the runout?!

Have a great summer

Tim
Rich_cakeboy - on 01 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Sweet! Well done Jim bob big big repect, that has got to leave the old trousers needing a wash or two. Finger firmly pulled out now, roll on the next E number :-)
Byronius Maximus - on 02 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: Fantastic effort, truly humbling! It's great to see JP answering his critics with ascents like this.

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