UKC

I apologise for yet another finger injury self diagnosis thread...

I was hanging a two finger pocket today on the fingerboard when I heard the dreaded 'pop' in my ring finger. It was quite loud and I grimaced waiting for the pain to kick in. But it never did.

I have full range of motion in my finger (no inflammation) and the only pain I get is low in the palm when I push against it and a bit of a background aching in the palm area.

It feels like a flexor strain, but I didn't think there would be a pop if it was. Any thoughts?

Also, if it is a flexor strain, how long should a lay off climbing before trying to rehabilitate it? Or is it dependant on the severity of the strain?

Thanks for any help, and sorry again!

Bump...

In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

THe simple diagnosis for tendon or pully is as follows:

Place the injured hand flat on a table, palm up. Hold down the tip of the affected finger with a finger of your other hand and attempt to raise just the tip of the affected finger against resistance. If it hurts, it's the tendon. If it doesn't, it's a pullety.

this doesn't cover all eventualities, but addresses the most common injuries.

I don't understand how that test can differentiate between the two? If the pulley is damaged then stressing the tendon against it will cause pain... Am I missing something?

In reply to Ed Brighteldman: Ohhhh Ed, first your ankle, now your finger!?!?! How is the ol' ankle anyway? been surgically removed/replaced/re-jiggled yet?

Hope you are good and living it up in the bridge!

DC

In reply to nniff:

This test is used to diagnose an injury to flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) which has insertion (via tendons) on the distal phalanx.

You have two flexor muscles for the fingers, FDP and flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) which inserts at the base of the middle phalanx.

Google finger pulley, FDP & FDS diagnosis tests.

Although, what I would say is that I've experienced similar pain to you when (frequently) suffering from tendon strains myself.

Does this count as Human Biology revision? I guessing not as this isn't on my exam.. Back to revision..

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

Surgery's on the 29. It was going to be training all summer, but now that sort of depends on my finger!

Re the tests. It definitely feels like a flexor strain, I can feel the discomfort going down into the forearm. But any idea as to what the popping would be? I'm pretty sure it's not a pulley as pressure in a crimp position doesn't hurt.

Also any idea on recovery time?

In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

Hi Ed,

I've had the exact same experience on my middle and ring fingers pulling on a 2 finger pocket - it sort of creaked rather than popped but definitely audible. I'd provisionally identified as a flexor unit strain.

Mine has lasted since late March so far.

Dave McLeod's advice on his Online Climbing Coach blog is to treat the same as a pulley injury.
In short: rest until no longer causing pain through normal range of motion, regular icing, climb on it again after 2-3 weeks avoiding grip positions that aggravate it.

Obviously usual caveats apply regarding listening to stuff on the internet and going to see a doctor.

Regarding recovery/climbing, after a week or so I was able to climb again without pain. I find it only twinges in very open grips and pockets, so I'm sort of cupping as much as poss and avoiding pockets.

In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

Do you still get the popping?

I have a similar injury now. When I apply pressure to the finger tip and try to bend against it I get pain in the finger on the palm side. Sometimes the finger locks straight then pops with a sharp pain as I bend it. I read somewhere this could be the swollen tendon struggling to move through the sheath (bit like trigger finger)

In reply to Ed Brighteldman: i did a similar thing two weeks ago today,the pop felt like a wire pulling tight in my arm,i havent put to much pressure on it yet but i did top rope some 4s and 5s saturday just gone (1.5 weeks since injury)

been recommended by a doctor to buy some voltarol gel on the arm,its only 4 squid from boots this will reduce inflammation and quicken recovery,also ice as much as possible i ahve been trying to do 30 mins on/off night times since i did it

i have full movment also but pain all down my arm when i put pressure o nteh ring finger.

OK, so if anyone's interested I think I've worked out what's up.

I think it was a strain of the flexor tendon (with associated damage to the synovial sheath) AND a slight tear to the A1 pulley. I'm assuming the A1 tear caused the popping sound.

If my prodding, testing and rehab is right then the flexor tendon took 3 weeks to get back to normalish even without icing.

The A1 pulley is well on it's way to recovery as is the damage to the synovial sheath.

I may be barking up the wrong tree, but it's getting better so I don't care!