UKC

I'm comfortable on complicated holds, crimps and pinches I have no problem with, I've even recently put in the graft to improve my technique on the dreaded slopers. For some reason I just can't move onto smaller holds.

I figured it would be just finger strength I needed to improve, I still reckon that's the problem, yet I've been taking a tennis ball with me everywhere I go for the past three weeks and squeezing it constantly, it doesn't seem to be helping much.

Does anyone know of any proper exercises (preferably ones that I can start out easy and build up on) for finger strength. It would be better if they don't require special equipment.

And is there anything that I'm missing? Is it not just finger strength?

Any advice welcome, thanks, Ste.

In reply to billybones: Try isometrics...thumb to fore finger, squeeze increasing to max strength for 30 sec, release; then thumb to each of the other fingers in turn, increasing duration, etc until bored... Good luck.

In reply to stonemaster: Do you do it with straight fingers or bent fingers?

In reply to billybones: Oops, nearly forgot, does a watch count as special equipment?

In reply to billybones: Both..

In reply to stonemaster: Yeah, as I don't own one! I use my phone for a clock.

I did once have a Sekonda that I kept after someone my sister had a one night stand with, left it (along with his boxer shorts) in her room, but it got stolen.

In reply to billybones:

The thing is when you're squeezing your tennis ball or those special spring grip master's, your fingers are moving from open handed position to a crimp position, but when you're climbing, your fingers are hanging off a small hold and they're not moving at all.

So while the squeezing might help a bit, your best bet is just to do what you're training for - just hang of your fingers. You don't need much equipment - just a wooden block or a door-frame.

Sorry if this wasn't really what you were hoping for, but hope it helps in the long run, and good luck with your training.

In reply to Joughton: But the problem is, I can't take my weight on small holds at all, and therefore, can't practice them more, therefore can't get stronger. :/

In reply to billybones: Start off with big holds to get your arms strong enough to hold your weight, that could be your problem, then once you're strong enough on jugs move on to smaller, or less positive holds or peices of wood to train your fingers more specifically until you're down to just small edges and crimps.

In reply to billybones:

I would put a few quidon it being body positioning more than strength...

However, One hand on a good jug, one hand on a 'small hold' 10 second dead hangs. That'll sort it.

In reply to bouldery bits: I like this idea, I'll be sure to try it next time I'm at the climbing gym!

Thanks!

In reply to billybones:

As a denizen of Pex, the crucible of crimp, I know a bit about developing finger strength - and also not how to do it, having once snapped a tendon, the noise echoing like a pistol shot around the quarry. Body position and technique help but some of the hard moves at Pex involve one finger crimps with your feet on smears.

So the first thing is that finger strength has to be developed gradually -ie over several months, if not years - as it is rather an unnatural thing to do. Use finger tape if that helps and ease off if there is any pain. And it goes without saying that you must watch your weight - lard-arses need not apply. As for exercises, the best is on fingery rock itself, though you could always make your own wall in the garage and create your own finger holds out of timber lathes.

In reply to billybones:

Traversing brick walls is good, but personally I would concentrate more on feet than fingers.

In reply to billybones:

Have you tried things such as "layering" of your fingers? Sometimes it helps to put e.g. the middle finger on top of the index finger or get your thumb on top of your index finger...

In reply to bobmalaria:

Very good point!
This wise sage has much to teach.

In reply to billybones:

The way to get good at using small holds is to try using small holds as much as possible. Failing that, hanging / pull ups on a door frame works.

All this non-specific tennis ball stuff and pinching thumb and forefinger is a red herring.

In reply to billybones:


So take some of the weight off then add it back gradually. A see-saw made from a plank of wood with some gym weights, books etc on the end is all you need. Alternatives are bungee cord, string and pulleys or simply keeping your toes on a chair/block while hanging, move the chair to vary the assistance.

IIRC there's some progression plans on the Beastmaker website. You don't need a Beastmaker to use the plan, just a little creativity.

Assuming your profile is up to date I'd personally suggest simply adding a bouldering session into your week and being patient, it's more fun than 'training' and at least if you do injure yourself it won't be hanging from a door frame watching a clock

jk