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Comedy at Kilnsey

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 Ed Bright 04 Aug 2011
Going up over the weekend and next week, just wondered if it stays dry in the rain or if it seeps?

Also how long is the route?

Any advice/beta welcomed as well!
davo 04 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

Should be dry. Was dry today. Unlikely to seep.
 Steve Crowe Global Crag Moderator 04 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

Usually dry but probably a long queue...
OP Ed Bright 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Steve Crowe:

Cheers guys. Anyone know the length of the route? Will a 45m rope be enough?
 Tyler 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

Yes, easily. If you have a stick clip it's worth pre-clipping the first two bolts (at least whilst working it although most people have both for the RP as well). If you'r a boulder you'll probably keep falling off the top, if you are a route climber you'll probably struggle with the moves past the second bolt.
 Ewan Russell 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Tyler:
sounds to me like ed will be struggling from the second bolt all the way to the top then
have fun mate!
OP Ed Bright 05 Aug 2011
In reply to The third:

Haha too right mate - looking forward to some epic pump...
 Michael Ryan 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:


>
> Any advice/beta welcomed as well!

The move above the 4th bolt. I used to thug it - and often melted!. Learnt some great beta off Stu Littlefair last week. Pinch/thumb sprag with left but instead of throwing for the poor pocket/pinch with right. Stick right foot out right on a small dimple and egyptian, get pencil pinch with right hand, bring left foot up and you can reach the poor pocket/pinch easily with your right, then get big hold with left and clip.

 JayK 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

What a great bit of rock. Straight out of Spain. Probably one of the most fun routes in the UK!
OP Ed Bright 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:

That sounds like it's just saved me a lot of effort, thanks!

Any tricks to get past the harder section up to the second bolt?
 Michael Ryan 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

I thug it Ed. Left in the slot, fingers jammed in so I can lever on it and I go right up with my right to a far edge, set right foot on good hold and using body tension cross through with my left to another edge, you can then either go straight for a jug (with your right) next to the bolt, or use an intermediate to bounce up to it.

I just hope it is cool for you, it was humid and soapy last Sunday.
 JayK 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

There really isn't much more beta then just be strong!
OP Ed Bright 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Mick and JimmyKay:

Haha right ok, I'll bring my strong pills. What bouldering grade do you reckon that section would get? Just so I can see if I'm being too ambitious!
 Michael Ryan 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

Start V4/5

above second V4
 Michael Ryan 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to Ed Feldman)
>
> Start V4/5
>
> above second V4

then a good rest, then V4 and V3 to top.

 owain86 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman: Hi Ed, theres loads of techncal stuff you can do to make the moves less strenuous. When you have the big crimp by the second bolt get a high, bunched right heel, go with your left to a thin slot, rock up and go again. You can get several right foot drop knees on the upper half. I have a video of it on vimeo actually if you wanna google that. Kilnsey is the best! crush it!
 owain86 05 Aug 2011
In reply to owain86: Whoops its Alex Mason by the way, just realised my laptop is logged in as my housemate.
 owain86 05 Aug 2011
In reply to owain86: Just read your profile, check out Smooth Torquer, Dominatrix, Pantomime and Mr Nice/The Jekyll for other routes with airy fallouts.
OP Ed Bright 05 Aug 2011
In reply to owain86:

Cheers, great video - nice work on the flash! I'll check out those other routes - Smooth Torquer looks like it may be just my style so might have a go at onsighting that!

Those bouldering grades are encouraging as well - just hope I've got the stamina for it...
 JayK 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

There are a couple of big jugs to rest on in the middle!
 Andy Farnell 05 Aug 2011
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to Ed Feldman)
>
> There are a couple of big jugs to rest on in the middle!

There's a couple of jugs to rest on all the way up...

Steady, for 7b+

Andy F
OP Ed Bright 05 Aug 2011
In reply to andy farnell:

Oi don't start downgrading it just yet - haven't even done the bugger!
 Andy Farnell 05 Aug 2011
In reply to Ed Brighteldman: I can't downgrade it yet, well not until I've done it in trainers...

Andy F
OP Ed Bright 05 Aug 2011
In reply to andy farnell:

Or worse, in Boreals...
 Michael Ryan 05 Aug 2011
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to Ed Feldman) I can't downgrade it yet, well not until I've done it in trainers...
>
> Andy F

I'll downgrade it for you Andy, when I'm 50...this September.



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