/ NEWS: James McHaffie - More Hard Sport and E8 Onsight

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UKC News - on 12 Aug 2011
Caff E8 Langdale Montage, 4 kb8c in a day and an E8 onsight are all in a week's work for the Cumbrian climber James McHaffie.

From Malham Cove bolt routes to Langdale trad routes, 'Caff' is on form.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63572

Rich Kirby - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Flippin 'eck!!
rubben - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: Cranker...looking forward to what else Caff puts down!
Skyfall - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Yeh, I casually chat whilst on cutting edge V Diffs ;) It's when I start singing to myself that my belayer needs to watch out!

Good to see so much hard trad being done in the Lakes recently and I'll be interested to see the film when it comes out in November.
ericinbristol - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Fantastic.

I've lost track: how many E8 onsights have there been?
GuyVG - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: really inspiring stuff, get this man to a boulder pronto so he can get a triple 8 crown within a week's climbing!
Franco Cookson on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:


This guy is a beast, although I thought 'Dawes Rides a Shovelhead' was now considered E7? Still a mighty fine effort like.
Lord_ash2000 - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to Franco Cookson: Yeah a mate of mine lead it last year and I had a top rope. Probably is E7 as its fairly safe and it only gets hard in the last quarter of the route. But still an on site is impressive, although to be fair if you're red pointing 9a and doing 8c in a session its to be exspected, I wouldn't say its 7c+ climbing.
JM - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: Yeah the climbing is about 7b+/7c with a short hard section but it is not very sustained so it is probably bottom end E7. It is hard to quantify the danger element though as most of the upper section is protected by pegs of unknown quality. A great effort to onsite though as there are a few ways to do the hard section all of which are hard to read with very poor footholds! Nice one Caff!
Duncan Campbell - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News: Nice one Caff... BEAST!

Is this the first onsight of Dawes Rides a Shovelhead? I've only ever heard of Headpoints. If so, surely Caff is the only person able to comment on the grade? The E-grade after all being for the onsight? Be interesting to hear his thoughts.

Inspirational!
Quarryboy - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to UKC News:

You know you're going well when you do two E5s to warm up!
remus - on 12 Aug 2011
Duncan Campbell - on 12 Aug 2011
In reply to remus: Cor bloody hell! It seems if you can climb 9a hard E grades just fall! no surprise there then!
jacobjlloyd - on 13 Aug 2011
In reply to remus: wow. Just wow.
remus - on 13 Aug 2011
In reply to jacobjlloyd: I think they might just be on to something with this Sport Climbing lark...
Boogs on 13 Aug 2011
In reply to remus:

yeh I reckon you could be right there Remus .

thats some serious climbing there fair play . .
Ian Patterson on 14 Aug 2011
In reply to boogie man:

According to Keith's blog Steve Mac also flashed birketts Eulogy Direct on the same day , quick Google gives that as E8 as well! Not a bad day for a 'sport climber'.
Wanderin' Boy on 14 Aug 2011 - host86-152-226-205.range86-152.btcentralplus.com
In reply to UKC News: It looks like you are top roping it; does that count as an ascent?
In reply to Ian Patterson:
> Not a bad day for a 'sport climber'.

As ever, I think the gentleman doth protest to much! ;-) Steve's trad record is the envy of 99% of us.
Ian Patterson on 14 Aug 2011
In reply to TobyA:

Indeed, hence my quotes! Don't know much about eulogy direct but does sound like a day up there with the very best of trad onsighting
Franco Cookson on 16 Aug 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell:
> (In reply to UKC News) Nice one Caff... BEAST!
>
> The E-grade after all being for the onsight?



Ground up actually. And get back to revision Mr Dunc!
Duncan Campbell - on 16 Aug 2011
In reply to Franco Cookson: ooh yep fair doos ground up too... and again should be revising! Bloody retakes...
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Franco Cookson on 16 Aug 2011
In reply to Duncan Campbell:

If you need inspiration for not spending time on UKC, take a look at Mick Ryan.

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