UKC

Amazing effort by Charlotte Durif on climbing her first F9a!
see www.chadurif.fr

In reply to Jon Bracey: Effort!

In reply to Jon Bracey:

Wow!

In reply to Jon Bracey:

Just in time as well - imagine the shame of not having ticked 9a before your 21st birthday!

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Mais qu'est-ce qu'elle a fait dans le grit?

In reply to Mots d'Invers:

sur le grit, surement?

Tu peux poser la question a la Durif soi-meme?

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Wow!

In reply to Blue Straggler:

Directly translated, yes, but the French describe being on a route or problem as "dans". No, I don't know why either!

In reply to Mots d'Invers:

This thought came to me while I was writing. Sorry to you, Charlotte, the French, and the thread in general! I wonder what she HAS done on grit though

In reply to Jon Bracey:
Can't believe there's not a news article on this. Inspiring stuff!

In reply to abarro81:


If you can do the translation, why not send it in? http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/sendnews.html

In reply to TobyA:
Je regrete, mais mon francais n'est pas tres bon.. (not sure how to say 'not good enough'?)

In reply to abarro81:


Google Translate will probably know!

In reply to Jon Bracey:
Sorry has any female done a 9a before???

In reply to TobyA:

I'm guessing UKC know about the 9a. Was her 8c onsight reported last year? I can't find a news report for that although there was a thread about it.

In reply to whistler:

Josune Bereziartu has, some time ago now. That's why Charlotte says "...and a thought for Josune". There may be others.

In reply to Jon Bracey: I like this photo of her

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?q=charlotte+durif&hl=en&sa=G&biw...

At only 1.60m tall, she should stop us shorties complaining 'I can't reach the holds'!

In reply to Cornelius Kite:

From Climbing:
"Durif sent Les 3P 15 minutes before she turned 21."

Does that mean she did it at 11.45 pm? Or that she really accurately knows what time she was born? Top effort either way!

In reply to TobyA: the latter.

In reply to Jon Bracey:

Just been reading her blog about it - http://chadurif.fr/blog-50.html - in which she suggested that there at least 2 women comp climbers she would expect to be able to do the route too, and possibly quicker than she did! That's pretty humble talk from a 21 year old superstar.

In reply to john arran:

Yep. TobyA, it's on her blog (in French) but I suppose it's not made clear on whatever you looked at.
"La date et l'heure que j'ai données au début sont importantes puisque je suis née le 18 août 1990 à 12h20. C'est donc à 20 ans que j'ai commencé la voie et le temps de descendre du haut, c'est donc à 21 ans moins le quart que j'arrive en bas"

Rough translation (not had my coffee yet) with a bit of Straggler licence:

The date and time that I started were important as I was born on August 18 1990, at 12:20pm. So, I started the route at the age of 20 and, including the descent, I arrived back at the bottom just 15 minutes before turning 21.

She started just before 11.30am. It was her 11th time on the route.

In reply to john arran:


Humble, yes - I love the casual wording on her climbing CV too. I think she lists a "rough number" of 8c routes without naming them, and casually mentions that she gets most 8a+ as onsight, as if they were HVS routes

In reply to Blue Straggler:

And i think i read about her sending her first 8a at Ceuse about 8 or 9 years ago the same day Chris Sharma did Realization. Anyway superb effort.

In reply to Jon Bracey:

anyone know what the situation is with this story being ignored then?

In reply to Dan_Carroll:> anyone know what the situation is with this story being ignored then?


From what I think I can make out from a couple of threads running on 8a.nu. is that she has made some doubtful claims in the past which means that the authenticity of her claims aren't now taken at face value by some without hard evidence to back it up. I like her topos. That's all I know.

In reply to shark: Cedric (Larcher?)of Kairn.com (French climbing website)has made the following comment on the forum of climbingarc:

http://climbingnarc.com/2011/08/5-14d-birthday-present-for-charlotte-durif/...

"As we discovered that Charlotte is lying a lot about her claims, we decided with other website part of CWN (Climbing Web Network) such as UKClimbing, Belclimb, Klettern...) not to post anymore about her claims if we have no independent witness. Several elements makes us think that again she did not do what she claims. Even Beal and Petzl, her sponsors, did not post about her 8c onsight. She is strong, very strong. But she (and her father most of all) is lying too much.

Kairn.com"

This would explain why the ascent has not been widely reported. Whilst natural to sympathise with Durif in the circumstances I think the websites are doing the right thing in not slavishly reporting the ascent. As a sponsored professional the onus is on Durif to provide proof/evidence if required. I hope she can and does.

In reply to Jon Bracey: why does someone continue to get sponsorship when the authenticity of their claims is repeatedly and widely mistrusted?

In reply to eschaton:

Publicity