UKC

Chatting with some pals at the weekend and we have noticed quite a few newish climbers happily falling off on severes - VS`s and low grade sports routes and it just seems so wrong. I know many good climbers talk of falling off being not a bad thing, but I do wonder if when taking this practice outside, people maybe have not got the experince to judge were falling off is Ok and not Ok, like above that ankle snapping flake, just a thought.

In reply to sjc:

Obviously, in a certain context, being OK about falling off is good. However, in a completely different context, the ability not to fall off is vital.

Are these newish climbers able to distinguish between different contexts and adopt utterly different mindsets?

Mick

In reply to sjc: surely, its about acceptance of risk, know when and when not to push it!!!!
As implied this can only come from experience and knowing your own ability!

However if a new beginner enters into our sport too afraid to push themselves then surely their own progression would be hindered???

I also think that trust in your belayer is key, if you know and trust your belayer then you definately will be more inclined to push yourself, trust in your gear when climbing trad helps too, as i found in 2005 when i probably shouldnt have lol.

just thoughts

In reply to Mick Ward:
This is what we were wondering about, pinging of an indoor wall is one thing, a 5+ slab or Severe in the quarries something totally different.

In reply to sjc: Yeah completely agree, i think were on the same song sheet being able to read the route and knowing if its worth pushing is key, if your gonna end up broke then you also need to have the confidence to back off, thoughts???

In reply to payney1973:
Yes you must trust your gear, BUT, you must understand what your trusting it to do, yes it may stop death, hurrah, but not a poorly ankle , and that's what I thinks some people don`t grasp.

In reply to sjc:

A big part is analyzing the fall, grade is fairly irrelevant.

In reply to sjc: bang on!!!!!

In reply to sjc:

In my experience beginners often split into two distinct groups. a) Those who dont trust the kit and are terrified of falling off & b) those that trust it absolutely and assume it makes them invincible.

The ability to turn the above 2 discrete extremes into a continuous line of risk and know, at any particular moment where you are on that line comes with experience. Sprained, ankles or a nasty rope burn often speed up the learning process for the invincible ones

Of course, with sport particularly, the irony is that easier is very often more dangerous: not so much to hit on the way down if your on a sustained overhang or a smooth slab! I reckon it's even worse in Spain where even the Grannies climb F6a so anything below often has very sporty bolting: your average Spaniard probably cant conceive of the possibility of falling of something that easy and bolts is accordingly.