UKC

A great read about the early explorations of Twll Mawr with Joe Brown placing possibly the first bolts in the slate quarries...

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1970-1%20Journal-p31-38.pdf

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Fascinating. They must have noticed the line of the Quarryman groove, its hard to say though from reading the article.

Did SMBH in Twill Mawr the other week Ian, must go back for the others, thanks for your efforts.

In reply to jonny2vests:

There's another one on the way, a 5 pitch 140 metre route on the quarryman wall...or there will be if the weather clears up.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

Well posted and a very enjoyable read! Diolch yn fawr.

I did Opening Gambit in 1979 or 1980 and thought it was a hell of an adventure as well as being a good climb. I remember reassuring myself when I got to the overhanging corner that there was no reason why it should all fall down while we were actually on it. (Must admit I wasn't unduly surprised when it did eventually collapse.) Some time later I also did Hamadryad but failed on Bushmaster, due to not being able to work out where it went (not *that* surprising due to having started in the wrong place.) Retreating off the big wall was a nightmare. Hamadryad was good though, but very serious.

Any idea what state these routes are in now?

JB's routes in Twll Mawr in the early '70s were both radical and extremely far-sighted, as was his use of bolts for protection. I last met him in Dali's Hole on his birthday 3 years ago. He'd been climbing some of the 'new' bolted sport routes but didn't seem to think much of them. No surprise at all really, all things considered.

Dave

In reply to Dave Williams:

There was a huge rock fall on Opening Gambit, not sure about the other two. The new slate guide will be out on Friday, so I guess we can all read the up to date descriptions from Hosey.

In reply to Sl@te Head:

I heard. I'll be there with bells on.

In reply to Sl@te Head: Thanks for that, great reading.

In reply to Swirly:

I love the bit about hauling a rucksack full of kit and beer!