UKC

The tying in thread got me thinking, so here's a question:

The scenario is a multi-pich trad route where you are switching leads.

The question is whether a bowline on a bight is an appropriate knot to use to set up the belay. http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Doppelter_Palstek


By tying the bowline on a big bight, you end up with two decent loops of rope, which can be equalised to your anchors as you finish the knot. This looks like a good system:

- relatively easy to adjust
- an escapable system
- reduces the amount of equipment needed

Does anyone use this system?
Any weaknesses?
Is there a minimum angle between the two loops that should be maintained?

Cheers,

Jim

In reply to Hephaestus:

this gives a 'bunny ears' knot which can also be tied with a fig-o-8 to give the same.

use it sometimes for reasons you give,

In reply to Hephaestus: I am sure this is fine, but I don't really see how it is an improvement on just using clove hitches which are exceedingly easy to tie and undo and 100% easy to adjust.

In reply to EeeByGum: Finding this difficult without pictures, but basically use the two loops to clip and equalise anchors. You're then left with a good anchor system, and the two ropes coming from the knot - one to you, meaning you can escape the system without faffing and one to your second.

Advantages over clove hitches: less bulky to tie into, requires less equipment?, escapability.

In reply to Hephaestus: Yep - you can get all that with clove hitches which are especially useful if you can't reach your anchors from your belay position and therefore don't need to spend hours readjusting your belay until you get it right. I just clip into the anchor and tie all my knots wherever I happen to be belaying.

That said - I have my system which is very quick and efficient. Other systems are available that are equally valid.