In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
> (In reply to Billy De Kid)
>
> It has been soloed before, I believe.
>
> I can’t follow the link – was this on-sight on the day?
John, the article says:
"One of gritstone's most famous routes, and certainly one of its most photographed 'hard' routes, End of the Affair was immortalised by Leo Houlding's headpointed ascent, captured on camera for the award winning video "Hard Grit".
Although once considered the ultimate, this Johnny Dawes testpiece from 1986 has, in recent years, become something of an introduction to the art of Hard Grit headpointing.
Regarded by many as a soft touch E8, the technical and tenuous 'barndoor' crux is normally perfectly protected by bomber gear in the half height break. However, in the event of a fall from the routes usual mental crux - involving a powerful reach rightwards at the top, with only poor smears for feet - competant belaying is all that will save the climber from hurtling into the bone crunching landing on the boulder strewn hillside below.
Ommitting to use a rope and place the bomber cams, the levels of committment required to leave the ground would increase dramatically...
Having already headpointed the route last winter Heason had often considered soloing the line, contemplating whether the risk was worth it. Stating End of The Affair as one of the best lines on gritstone, ranking highly among his favourite routes of all time, Heason had little doubt.
On a cool crisp evening after work Heason committed, and soloed the precarious arete, adding yet another impressively bold gritstone ascent to his considerable tally. "
MarkH
