/ THE LOWDOWN: VIDEOS: Webb and Beall - V14s at Bishop and Hueco

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Björn Pohl - UKC - on 14 Dec 2011
Jimmy Webb - Esperanza - V14 / 8B+, 4 kbTwo hard problems have recently been climbed at the at the American bouldering venues of Bishop, CA, and Hueco Tanks, TX.


At the former, Dan Beall has made the 3rd ascent of Shawn Diamond's Direct North on the Grandma Peabody boulder. Meanwhile, Jimmy Webb headed south to Hueco Tanks.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=65545
unclesamsauntibess - on 14 Dec 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: is that what passes for a valid ascent these days? WTF? The first guy falls off, he doesn't complete anything and the second guy jumps off just as it gets hard without making the top................
standard on 14 Dec 2011
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:
not sure if joking or not...
Jonny2vests - on 14 Dec 2011
In reply to standard:
> (In reply to unclesamsauntibess)
> not sure if joking or not...

Hmmm.

If yes, there's no punchline. If no, then oh dear.
JKinsella - on 14 Dec 2011
In reply to jonny2vests: I suppose it is possible he may not have realised that the first video doesn't show the ascent, and that the second problem finishes at that large dish. I think the second mistake is more understandable...
unclesamsauntibess - on 15 Dec 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: If the first video doesn't show the ASCENT then why show it at all? He FALLS OFF, doesn't even stick the hold, it's a non event. In the second why does he make such a fuss just to lift his leg to touch the rock so high? If the problem (note, NOT route) ends at the pocke then just drop off from there. Deadly serious mate.
metal arms on 15 Dec 2011
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) If the first video doesn't show the ASCENT then why show it at all?

So you know what the problem is like? I find it easier and more accurate to see a problem than to imagine it.
Tru - on 15 Dec 2011
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:

The first video, as the article explains, displays the high heel hook that could result in the climber becoming inverted and flying head first towards the ground. I imagine the filmer wishes to save the full ascent for a future video.

In the second video the climber uses a high toe hook in order to free his other hand to enable him to match hands on the finishing hold; as is general practice for non top out boulder problems.

Next time why not ask polite questions instead of handing out accusations towards a side of the sport that you have little understanding of.
grant727 - on 15 Dec 2011
In reply to unclesamsauntibess:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) In the second why does he make such a fuss just to lift his leg to touch the rock so high? If the problem (note, NOT route) ends at the pocke then just drop off from there. Deadly serious mate.

Because he has to match the last hold to finish.............
Durbs on 18 Dec 2011
In reply to grant727:

FFS - The second video is Nalle Hukatavial, not James Webb - it's just to illustrate the route.
Learn to read people.

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