/ Ecrins Ice

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Toby_W on 29 Jan 2012
So we're out in the Ecrins again, amazing conditions and set to get colder so absolutely everything should be in by the end of the week. We're staying with alpbase again which is great as Jerry Gore who runs it is a great bloke, already had a quick beer and might catch up for a climb later in the week. Today we did Dessous Chic, a single pitch II/5 which was only just coming in and very steep drainpipe ice followed by the first pitch of Hiroshima a classic III/5, the second pitch sadly was only just touched down and too thin for our thuggish and clumsy first day efforts.
Tomorrow we're continuing to warm up with Nains des ravines which I think is a IV/4. I'll try and upload some pictures but www.ice-fall.com has some with conditions report.
My viking (Norwegian) climbing partner Anders is climbing well... why aren't we in Norway you may ask? I'll tell you, even though I like that strange brown cheese they eat in Norway, French cheese is quite good and this evening I've had several Leffe Ruby beers (never heard of ruby before but very very nice) and a bottle of Cote de rhone wine and all for the price of a single 0.4l beer in Norway. Saying that next year we may do a road trip down the west coast ice climging.
Anyway I'll try and stick a few photos up but really don't come climbing here it's awful, we didn't see anyone to talk too all day ;-)

Cheers and climb well

a drunk Toby
Toby_W on 03 Feb 2012
In reply to Toby_W:

Oh what a wonderful week, in the Fournel the other day there were two cars and well over a hundred ice routes to do. We did Beating the Retreat IV/4+ 300m (one of the best ice routes ever) and then raced back to do Davidoff above the car park II/5. We also did Capitaine Courageux III/4 and found an ice screw half way up the last pitch with the hanger sheared cleanly off. Placed horizontally in solid ice. SCARY.

Home tomorrow, I'll try and put some photos up when I get back.

Cheers

Toby
george mc - on 03 Feb 2012
In reply to Toby_W:
> (In reply to Toby_W)
>
> We did Beating the Retreat IV/4+ 300m (one of the best ice routes ever) .
>
> Cheers
>
> Toby

Glad ya had a good one :) Did the first ascent of that climb with Robin back in the dim and distant past. We enjoyed it too!
Ron Walker - on 03 Feb 2012
In reply to george mc:

It's great to see Scottish climbers making first ascents in the Alps and the high regard many french guides have of Scottish climbers and our climbing!!!
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Toby_W on 04 Feb 2012
In reply to george mc: This will sound odd however I say it so, super cool George, I love the name, the route and every year I've been there it's one of the things that adds a certain character to the whole place along with things like Sombre Heros etc. Just got back (-23.5 in La Grave this morning) and your reply has lifted my post holiday blues a little.

Cheers

Toby

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