/ Anglezarke bolts again!
I dont know what to call them exactly as they don't particularly look like your traditional bolts. They are more like giant screw threads sticking out of the rock. They are quite new as there is still all the residue from the drilling running down the rock face.
Three of the additions are right at the top of Nightmare at the Walts wall area.
Photo's can be found here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/77879850@N08/sets/72157629658153029/
there're pretty substanial bits of metalwork, I wouldn't have thought they were anything from a climbing point of view, could be worth asking the ownwers what is going on. united utilites I think own zark?
Good effort mark
Looks like a rock stabilisation job from your photos. Could be painful to land on them.
No it doesn't, I have done quite a bit of geothechnical work and this looks like 10/12mm thread bad bar commonly used in suspended ceilings and to hang cable trays.
> No it doesn't, I have done quite a bit of geothechnical work and this looks like 10/12mm thread bad bar commonly used in suspended ceilings
Hardly seems worth it - a suspended ceiling over Anglesarke?
This is a popular route and could cause someone a serious injury. Do you reckon you could jemmy them out or would you have to hacksaw them off?
Or wack them over with a lump hammer to make them safe for climbers and piss off the perpetrators?
They're obviously there for a reason, no one goes to trouble of equipping something like that for shits and giggles. Ask around and find out what they're before taking any action :)
This badly placed they should come out quite easily with a crowbar with a nut screwed down towards the base
> They're obviously there for a reason, no one goes to trouble of equipping something like that for shits and giggles. Ask around and find out what they're before taking any action :)
No, it's out of order to place bolts on a trad climb against the wishes of local climbers. And it's doubly out of order when the objects placed are dangerous. They're coming out.
> No, it's out of order to place bolts on a trad climb against the wishes of local climbers. ...
Not if you own the quarry! I'd certainly check, looks like United Utilities.
It looks like the start of a klettersteig.
Having said all that I can't imagine it's got owt do do with Allied Utilities, they look like a pretty amateur job.
Just a thought, do they overlook any wildlife? They could be anchors for a hide. There are bolts at the top of a Northumberland crag for that purpose.
> This badly placed they should come out quite easily with a crowbar with a nut screwed down towards the base
From a climbing point of view yes.
But gluing threaded bar into holes is pretty normal for other stuff. I've done it myself - you use glass capsules full of resin then whack the bar down the hole.
Looks like hilti have improved on the old glass capsule methood:http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/page/module/product/prca_rangedetail.jsf?lang=en&nodeId=-61019
The rods could be for anything - take your climbing blinkers off.
Sorry bro - the climbing blinkers bit wasn't aimed at you - the whole thread really.
But how do you know they are dodgy from a photo without knowing what they are for?
Threaded bar glued into holes is a common thing but they certainly don't look like anything for climbing.
If they are for climbing you're right - they look wrong.
If it is its a tough one, becuase why should we as climbers force our ethics onto other sports?
Controversal I know, but I am trying to find a parallel from other sports forcing ethics onto others.
I also think it's something to do with high lining as someone has already stated. The fact that there are 3 threads suggests they are trying to create a system with some redundancy, and the style is tending towards some amateur pursuit rather than a professional purpose. I think there were 3 to 4 bolts put in when I posted last time, just lower down in the same area. This suggests to me the same people could be responsible. Now the threads are near the top of the crag, it is more achieveable to link a highline to the next arete and improves accessability to it. They may have also deliberately not placed the threads on Nightmare, but just around the corner, so not to p*ss climbers off too much.
My two penneth, for what it's worth. I'll try to get down there more often.
Could well be a highline, its getting popular as there is often one up in the slate quarries <Wales>
> 'I also think it's something to do with high lining as someone has already stated.'
If it is for high lining then there needs to be somme communication with climbers. Nightmare is a popular 'Western Grit' VS; you climb onto the ledge above which the bolts/threads are, then move onto the arete to finish - so you could use them as a belay. Also, if you fell off the final moves there is a chance that you could be impaled on them! It would be relatively easy to find a location which wouldn't affect climbs and also to suggest a safer kind of anchor.
Possibly some wierd homemade anchors for a activity centre abseil rig? With the last photo of a bolt used for getting the clients to the ledge by via ferata maybe? Don't know the crag very well so if the wall is 5 metres high...i take this idea back....
> If it is for high lining then there needs to be somme communication with climbers.
If it's for high lining then where is the other end? Golden Tower?
Interesting choice of words :-)
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