/ Climbing in Costa Blanca/Majorca

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Rob on 20 Sep 2000 - 194.200.178.5 whois?
Does anyone know the best crags for easier/middle grade climbs in Majorca or the Costa Blanca? Are they fully bolted or will I need a rack of gear?
Chris Craggs on 20 Sep 2000 - p56-kookaburra-gui.tch.which.net
Try buying a guide, from me at http://homepages.which.net/~chris.craggs or from RockFax

Chris
Al Downie on 21 Sep 2000 - Alastair.fineart.dundee.ac.uk
Chris Craggs wrote:

> Try buying a guide, from me

Ooooh! Controversial! Fight! I'll hold your jacket, Niff.


> or from RockFax

Wimp.

I'd buy the Rockfax, but look through the CC guide in the shop
to count the pictures of Binksy in his daft hat.


See ya,

al
Alan James, ROCKFAX on 21 Sep 2000 - vbrain.demon.co.uk
> Does anyone know the best crags for easier/middle grade climbs in
> Majorca or the Costa Blanca? Are they fully bolted or will I need
> a rack of gear?

Apart from the info on the ROCKFAX site at
http://rockfax.com/costa_blanca/
there are also another couple of useful sites which have plenty of info.

http://www.geocities.com/costablancaclimbing/

http://members.xoom.com/jdbenham/majorca/majorca.htm

Also check the other stuff at http://rockfax.com/links.html#travel

Hope this is of help.

You could also use Chris' advice and buy a book available from
http://rockfax.com/shop.html

Alan
David C. on 21 Sep 2000 - hades.mcc.wwwcache.ja.net
Although the Rockfax is the better guide, the Chris Craggs guide includes Marin, which is a very good bolted crag for S-VS routes.

Take some slings and a small rack and climb one of the long (14 pitch)easy routes on the Puig de Campana. Photocopy this part of the guide, including the way down, before you leave the UK - both guides are large.



Chris Craggs on 23 Sep 2000 - p05-mallard-gui.tch.which.net
> Chris Craggs wrote:
>
> > Try buying a guide, from me
>
> Ooooh! Controversial! Fight! I'll hold your jacket, Niff.
>
>
> > or from RockFax
>
> Wimp.
>
> I'd buy the Rockfax, but look through the CC guide in the shop
> to count the pictures of Binksy in his daft hat.

How cruel, he is only in 10 of the 32 pictures and has a different hat in everyone!!
>
Chris
neil hogg on 15 Apr 2001 - host213-1-75-227.btinternet.com
In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: i've just come back from there in responce the best midlle crag is by far cala magraner lots of fully bolted middle routes with plenty of scope for new routes in the vs to e2 range, also worth a visit is gubiawith lots of multi pitch hvs's that are fully bolted and worth 3 stars again potensial here is vast with routes going 200 meters in hight
mattB on 15 Apr 2001 - arco14.cc.bbsrc.ac.uk
In reply to Rob:
If you go to Sella, don't bank on camping as he's lost his license. I think it's for litter or something. There are a load of other campsites around though, all better, but not so close.
tomphillipspcs on 15 Apr 2001 - host213-122-206-59.btinternet.com
In reply to Rob: There are some excellent multi pitch easier routes in the New Echo valley section of the new guide
Baz on 15 Apr 2001 - host213-122-254-245.btinternet.com
In reply to Rob:Lots more variety for you on the Costa Blanca.
Marin, Sax and Forada for three easy days. Don't need any gear other than quick draws. Some very easy routes at Toix West but they're a bit boring. Sella for lots of HVS 5a/b.
There are lots of easy routes on Campana but not in the English guides, except Sur Central. Buy the Spanish Guide by Carlos Tutadela for all of the Campana from a bar in Finestrat. Beware though some of the severe/VS's are twenty odd pitches.
ben on 16 Apr 2001 - tnt-20-115.easynet.co.uk
Hmm rob, Costa Blanca will give you more variety, but if your going for a week mallorca will have enough to hold your attention. Cala magraner is indeed a god like minicrag and I whole heartedly suggest that you go (5+, lots of 6as). If you can climb 6a/6b Sa Gubia is good value, esp Gubia normal (VS, take a rack). Beware at weekends. Additionally, beware the ubiquitous germans who will undoubtedly be found shitting in a bush somewhere near (not that the english don't shit in bushes, we just do it differently....;)
Dan on 16 Apr 2001 - 200.13.168.90 whois?
In reply to Rob: I lived in Majorca for five years. By far the best well known crag is Sa Gubia. It's in all the guides and is sort of horse-shoe shaped so you'll get shade somewhere on the crag at all times of the day. If you knom the locals they'll take you to some really excellent unknown-to-tourist places, but you'll have to be able to get up sport 7's and 8's. If you can and you want to I can put you in contact with quite a few people who live there and would be happy to take you out. Let me know if you want me to do that. A bit of Spanish (the basics) may help with some of them.
Adrian Bates on 02 May 2001 - mail.lunn-poly.co.uk
In reply to Baz:

I would agree that the Costa Blanca offers more options at the easier grades than Majorca appears to.

In reply to Rob:
Baz mentions Forada. If you intend to use this crag make sure you do not leave it too late in the season as the easier routes are predominately on the South face which gets the full blast of the sun and has absolutely no shelter to speak of.

Adrian Bates
Costa Blanca Climbing
www.geocities.com/costablancaclimbing
ads.ukclimbing.com
AJM - on 11 Sep 2013
In reply to remus:

When did you send it? I had nothing in my inbox and I had a look into the junk folder in case it ended up there but no joy.

Any chance you could send me another, that way even if it ends up in spam I'll be able to fetch it before it gets deleted or whatever...

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