UKC

Heard a rumour this weekend that Dalvinder Sodie had done Brad Pitt, if this is true then well done Dal. This is an awesome achievement and just goes to show what strong fingers and hard training can accomplish.

In reply to Lee Proctor:

Thats quite an achivment for a relativley unknown climbing lass to score with one of the most sought after men on the planet and a hollywood bigshot like Brad Pitt. Whay does her bloke steve dunning think to this, isn't he jealous?

If of course you meant the classic 7c problem Brad Pit then it pays to get the spelling right. But lets not get bogged down in semantics.

In reply to Lee Proctor:

if you are the lee preparing the clwyd guide any idea when it will be ready?

In reply to Lee Proctor:

ive just started it and it looks probable now. its all about pulling on the left heel (if you dont try the obscene dyno that french guy did) and holding the lay away. why have people covered the first hold in chalk? its not hard to hold and doesnt need much there at all, the lay away is a different story as its a real pig and needs every bit of help it can get. has anyone else here stuck it yet? ive spent 20mins on it and reckon it'll go when im strong (im all soggy since its summer and not really the grit season).

In reply to Arran Willis:

the dyno was by thomas willenberg, he's german and he's not well,

laterzz

m@

In reply to m@:

And the SS!

In reply to m@: I believe it was Jason Myers who did it the dyno way first. Way ahead of his time that boy.....

In reply to Carnage:

Or of course technically illiterate depending on how you look at it.

In reply to m@:

looks like several people have done it via the dyno. having concidered it as on of the only two ways up and had a feel for it i reckon it might be a grade harder at B14 as opposed to the heel hooking b13. so, who actually did the dyno first? if anyone knows for sure then please do say so i can curse their name when next on it.

In reply to Arran Willis:
B13? Font 7c, V9, B10 with heelhook you fool.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously: If you've got the height and the power, you might as well use it. There's not point in making things diffcult for yourself.

In reply to Anonymous:

thats what it says in the bouldering guide for the peaks. page 55, problem 23. Brad Pit, 3stars, B13 (uk tech 7b, hueco V13, font 8a+ all translated using the guides table) a famously hard problem up the back of the photograph block. three holds to connect, either dynamically or statically, its up to you. im going by what the guide says, i dont think the heel hook drops it 3 grades.

In reply to mike:

Yes I am the "Lee" preparing the new guide. Much to my own disgust I haven't as yet put pen to paper. There will be an article in the July issue of Climber covering all the main sport climbing developments which should keep people happy. I hope to get the guide written and out in the next year.

In reply to Arran Willis: I might be wrong but I thought that grade was given for the original dynamic method and nowadays its accepted that the 'new' method drops the grade a few pegs.

In reply to Arran Willis:
Oh yes it does.

In reply to tc:

Brad Pitt has now had 6 ascents and is dropping in grade. Reckoned to be about B11 or Font 7c+.

thats off the rockfax updates section, just checked it so now accept its dropped a bit but not b10, its a touch harder than that. font 7c+ seems right though. im going to have to ootle up there and have a proper session with my mats this time and really see what its like as opposed to a glance.

In reply to Carnage:

you're absolutely right, sorry.

mr myers was indeed the first ascentionist that way, although it took wilderbeast about 10 minutes by all accounts.

he is about 6 foot 5 and built like a brick shithouse mind,

m@

In reply to m@: And he's supposedly stared climbing again after a long lay-off. Wander whats next.........

In reply to Arran Willis:

"Brad Pitt has now had 6 ascents and is dropping in grade"

its had way more than that surely

m@

In reply to Arran Willis:

brad pit now has had probably over a 200 ascentionists, I've seen people lap it for the cameras. The concensus grade is 7c/V9/B10. It doesn't matter what the bouldering guide says, that was written 6 years ago when it had only had 3 ascents. Its is common for hard problems to drop grades, and even more so when new sequences are found. Also the starting hold has probably been enlarged by wirebrushing since it was first done.....

In reply to daveP:

fair enough, still going to have a crack at it as its a nice famous problem that is truly a quality sequence. will now ammend my book and revel in the fact that i probably can stick it much quicker then i thought as its on my grade for working things quickly now. cheers all

In reply to daveP:

Bloody hell! it was stinkin hot this weekend. Awesome effort.

In reply to Lee Proctor: nice one, will look forward to the guide!! if you need any help checking out any obscure new routes/crags drop me an e-mail.