UKC

We're off on holiday for a week in summer, and although we know of some of the better known venues (cham/val di mello/ecrins/dollies/etc), we don't know much about specific routes and crags. So please come forth with crag and route suggestions, as well as suggesting any other areas we should consider.

-It'll be strictly rock climbing
-Trad or sport (around HVS-E2/6a-6c)

Cheap flights and then public transport or a hire car is the rough plan.

We'll be booking last minute to wherever the sun is shining.

Cheers folks. G.

In reply to Calder:

Flippin' 'eck, that's quite a wide brief.

Ok, I shall give you one of my old favourite spots - Grimsel/Handegg in Switzerland. More rock than you can shake a stick at - mostly granite slabs, from single to 15+ pitches. Two of the most famous routes in the area are Motorhead (very sportingly bolted 6a/+ making it worth maybe a couole of E points - Septumania next to it is similar) which has a long'ish but scenic walk in and Fairhandsline (steeper, about 6a/+ again but better bolted) with a much shorter walk in and exciting decent...

As you pass through Switzerland try to stop off to do something on the Mirroir d'Argentine if you've yet to do so. Do the Direct with the traditional start round to the right up the steep chimney pitches. Bolted but the early pitches have a very trad feel to them (maybe take some gear). I think it's given 5/5+ and it does feel about stiff VS/HVS (or at least did for us as it was quite damp). Alternatively, maybe Remix at around 6a (one I intend to go back to do at some point).

In reply to Calder:

Okay... To help this get going, what're Paklenica and Corsica like?

After a mix of mainly long routes, but with some short ones for when we're knacked.

In reply to Calder:

If it is in the summer, then think about temperatures. Some places can be just too hot to climb. Higher altitudes such as the places you have mentioned should be fine.
If you decide to go to a trad venue, then consider your luggage allowance when you book your flight - some of the budget airlines have quite low allowances.
Deciding on a venue in advance does have the advantage of letting you order and peruse a guide book in advance.
What sort of accomodation are you planning? Camping? If so, once again, think about weight allowances.

In reply to Calder:

http://www.climb-europe.com/RockClimbingCorsica.htm

"The best months to go rock climbing in Corsica are from spring to early June and then September until the end of autumn. In main summer months of July and August will be just too hot and very busy."

In reply to Calder:

http://www.climb-europe.com/croatia/paklenica.htm

"The best time of the year to visit Paklenica for rock climbing is from April through to late October. The winter can be very windy and wet, and while in the high summer it can get very hot, though there is always shade to be found in the sports climbing area of Klanci to the north face of Anica kuk."

In reply to tlm:

That is one useful website, thanks!

In reply to Calder:

I went to Corsica in late May and it was too hot then for much climbing. The ''hot rock" destinations are for Spring/Autumn (or even Winter) but in the summer, in Europe, you will need to look at more alpine type destinations for more altitude and cooler conditions. As well as my earlier suggestion, have you looked at the Ecrins (in particular Ailefroide)? If not, there was a recent thread on here about routes in the area but they poster was after something quite specific, whereas there are tons of short and long bolted routes to go at.

A bit more left field, think about the Lofoten Islands in Norway. Long daylight hours in the summer and often settled weather I gather. Looks like fantastic long trad routes of all grades. I think there's a Rockfax guide.

In reply to JonC:

I'd go along with all that, and add Gletscherweiz 6b+ to the Eldorado list. We combined the Grimsel with a couple of days in Mello, for Kundalini/Luna Nascente, (just superb), by fly/drive to Milano.

In reply to JonC:

Again, cheers! I'll keep Corsica for a late in the year weekend hit instead!

Went to Ailefroide a few years ago - THE most chilled village on the planet? And a good mix of short and long routes. It's deffo an option.

As for Lofoten, I'd love to go there but logistically it just seems like a ballache. Hmmmm.

In reply to Iain Peters: Sounds like an awesome trip. It may have just become my number one option.

In reply to Calder:

If you're keen on long routes but want plenty of single-pitch choices too you certainly should consider Ariège. The Dent d'Orlu has some of the longest and best fully-equipped sport routes in Europe - up to 31 pitches, mainly on lovely edgy granite slabs. Then just half an hour down the road near our place by Tarascon is a wonderland of literally hundreds of sectors of single-pitch and shorter multi-pitch routes on three different rock types all within about 15 minutes drive. This includes shady sectors good in summer, notably at Auzat and Alliat, as well as some higher and cooler options.

You'll need a hire car if you're to get the most out of the area but everything is pretty close together so you won't need to be spending much time in it.

Plenty of topos online at http://cafma.free.fr/plan.htm

Let me know if I can help with more detailed recommendations.

In reply to john arran: That looks utterly rad!