/ Quiet Flight/Direct Flight at Kilnsey
At the end of the technical / vertical bit mid-route, can't you get a good blow before embarking on the steep top bit?
There's a good rest at the end of the initial right-wards traverse and up to the first undercuts. After the series of undercuts and sidepulls directly above there's a fingery move left and another half decent rest for the finish: another couple of undercuts and a reach over to get the left-hand into a good slot, step through to a jug on the arete. None of the rests are exactly hands-off but I found them pretty decent: the difficulties don't really mount up.
It all felt a lot easier on my second go when I found the slot. On my initial attempt I crimped a tiny crease on its lip, not knowing that if my hand had gone a an inch further it could have been in deep!
agree with Nige M. both routes the same after the right-a-bit traverse from the direct start. You should be able to engineer a shake with your feet on that ledge before embarking on the top bit.
I thought / still think tough for 7a+, I'd done frankie before this, but it's still probably top-end 7a+, scraping 7b maybe. I don't think it's near Haslam in terms of being sustained, maybe you have a duff or too-hard sequence?
Elsewhere on the site
Perhaps the perfect Xmas gift for the climber in your life... Wild Country's Crack School has two of the worlds best crack... Read more
F ounded in 1993, Mountain Hardwear are a pretty young mountaineering clothing and equipment manufacturer but are also one of... Read more
Rock shoes stink – let’s face it. Boot Bananas are the perfect way to fight the funk and keep them fresh. They help... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video features the Norwegian town of Rjukan, once believed to be the home of the world's tallest... Read more
The release of Peter Jackson's new film The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies on 12th December may not appear to link to... Read more