UKC

yeah i know here we go again, but i read with some interest a few weeks ago about how many people thought the magazines out there were ignoring those a the bottom the climbing ladder and concentrating on those a the so called "cutting edge"

I did agree with many points raised, but on purchase on a recent copy of climber, i feel this point is worth noting...On there so called Glossy poster of 100 classic climbs , how many are of VD ????????? F@@k all.

I gave up high months ago and now climber will now sell one less copy per month. Many of my friends are of the same feeling recently with these magazines..do there editors read these humble pages where real opinions are said, or have they got there head up there arses like many editors i have spoken to..........
well i feel a lot better for that.
I think i will stick to FHM.

In reply to Andrew:
Instead of being negative about magazines become proactive and write some articles on low grade climbing. I'm sure the editors would welcome it. You never know until you try.

In reply to David:

Get some good pictures, and be sure to use slide film for them...

In reply to David: Quite right. It's not even true that the magazines don't include articles on lower grade climbs. Last time I went to Swanage Mike Robertson (a very high standard local activist) was taking photos of climbers for a forthcoming article on Swanage HVS climbing (he made my leader wait before the crux of Strapiombo until a cloud passsed over, to get the best light).

Let's face it, whatever grade you lead at there will be articles on climbs at a grade you are not interested in leading yourself, whether because they are too difficult or they are too easy. Although I am sure I will never lead climbs anywhere near the leading standards of the day I have still enjoyed over the years reading about the exploits of Redhead, Dawes, Littlejohn etc. They are remarkable people and have interesting things to say about climbing, even if I will never be able to repeat their climbs myself (with the exception of Mr Littlejohn's lower grade offerings).

In reply to Andrew:
Yeah but there were no E5 routes either and only 4 E4s, maybe the comilers of the list were aiming for the middle ground where most keen, regular climbers operate. Just a thought.

In reply to Tyler:

Most keen, regular climbers operate in the mid E grades? I thought most climbers operate at HVS and below.

All I can say is that if the NME just covered pub bands who'd buy it?

In reply to Grover:

Nah, mid E grades for def.

In reply to Porky:

I've got a long way to go then.

In reply to Grover:
Thats not what I said, most routes on the list were in the VS to E2 braket with fewer E3's and E4's. I think the routes to grade spread was probably proportional to climbing abilities of the readership.

In reply to Grover: I seem to remember reading somewhere that the UK average was HVS.
It depends on the route, I guess. I've been on some HVS that I cruised, others that I just could not get near?
But I do get hacked off with the E4+ attitude of magazines. Which explains why I don't buy 'em?

Tim, the Grey. HVS, and proud of it.

In reply to Tim, the Grey one.:

Email OTE and voice your opinions. They are not mindreaders!

In reply to Tim, the Grey one.:


Median UK grade about VS, if you count all climbers (whatever that means) according to some survey I read recently.

In reply to Andrew:

Or are you just buying the wrong magazine? Something like On The Hill has articles on classic routes in the moderate - V Diff range. Although you'll have to put up with features on walking and mountain biking, too. I'd suggest your average bumbly climber (I'd include myself.....) doesn't climb any harder because they get distracted by other mountain activities, so these magazines are quite well targetted..... if annoyingly 'extreme'....