/ NEW ARTICLE: VIDEO: Shattered - Steve House
After achieving his dream summit, an elite climber finds himself empty. Broken and untethered, he searches for a fulfillment more lasting than a faraway peak.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4749
My thoughts on this were perfectly summed up by Damo in this thread:
One of the funniest things Iíve read on UKC in a long time!
"Broken and untethered, he searches for a fulfillment more lasting than a faraway peak."
Is this arty speak for 'he was on the pull'?
I liked the video at first but given that he was on a safety line - not soloing as he appeared to be - it's totally artificial. I hate it when folk make out to be doing stuff they aren't.
I certainly don't doubt his credentials, far from it! I just dislike the false impression this video gives the viewer.
I enjoyed it. Its a climber climbing......!
I'll say what I said on the other thread and that is that I thought it was lovely. Lovely climbing and nice quotes (they are not all his own). It is at the end of the day a short piece made by a budding young film maker remember. Quite a calibre of 'helpers' involved as well.
People need to be a bit more positive. Twight and house have climbed a bit together in the 90s, but I don't think their views could be seen as that similar.
I don't think I would have guessed that it was filmed on a Cannon EOS if I hadn't already known.
"My deepest fear is that I'm not worthy of.....the Big Jim Breakfast at Pete's Eats"
"When you've given eveything , what do you have left....usually a bit of fried bread and a few mushrooms"
Well that's five and a half minutes of my life ill never get back. Load of shit.
You can also watch the photographer/filmmaker giving a Speedlight tutorial whilst shooting Steve House, or if you want he'll show you how simple it is to photograph skiers in bad light (providing of course you have a few thousand pounds worth of Canon kit, two assistants, some pro skiers and a closed off snow park).
I wonder too how much say SH had about being on a hidden top-rope?
For me rock climbing became a behavioural addiction. It started out as hanging out with mates, then slowly I started using the high from climbing to make up for other shortfalls in my life. Gradually I had to go further and further to get the same kick.
Danger addiction is as powerful as gambling or sex addiction; both of which can ruin people's lives.
The vast majority of climbers are healthy, and doing it for fun. However some people have a problem, and often we idolize these people, because they get very good. While many people can solo or climb hard trad while remaining healthy, I can't. So I just boulder and do a bit of sport climbing.
I think this is a beautiful video, and wish the author luck in finding genuine fulfilment.
The great leveller!
Personally if they'd just filmed the guy soloing that route for 5 minutes and left out the cheesy soundtrack and self-indulgent philosophising it would have been a really gripping climbing video. Watching someone solo steep ice is pretty scary, edge of your seat stuff, they managed to completely avoid catching any of that in the film.
Enjoyed that. Moody photography, verbal overlay perhaps a little over the top but still poignant. Great scenery.
And the "how it was done" vids were interesting, giving an insight into the thought processes of the film-making craft.
I think this would have been far more engaging had the voice over been recorded by a very irritated, small time Chinese business man.
I thought it was good - nowhere near as self indulgent as I had expected from the comments up thread. I especially liked the commentary right at the end.
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