/ NEW ARTICLE: VIDEO: Shattered - Steve House

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UKC Articles - on 28 Jun 2012
Steve House - Shattered, 2 kbWhen you've given everything, what do you have left?

After achieving his dream summit, an elite climber finds himself empty. Broken and untethered, he searches for a fulfillment more lasting than a faraway peak.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4749

galpinos - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

My thoughts on this were perfectly summed up by Damo in this thread:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=506826&v=1#x6886321

> Sounded like he looked deep inside himself and found a Mark Twight article from 1993 to read out loud.

One of the funniest things Iíve read on UKC in a long time!
999thAndy on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to galpinos:

"Broken and untethered, he searches for a fulfillment more lasting than a faraway peak."

Is this arty speak for 'he was on the pull'?
Michael Gordon - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

I liked the video at first but given that he was on a safety line - not soloing as he appeared to be - it's totally artificial. I hate it when folk make out to be doing stuff they aren't.
TonyG - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to Michael Gordon:
If you want footage of Steve House free soloing hard winter mixed, fill your boots:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycdi06FZNy4
Michael Gordon - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to TonyG:

I certainly don't doubt his credentials, far from it! I just dislike the false impression this video gives the viewer.
hexcentric - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: What a load of pretencious w**k.
bigdan050 - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to hexcentric: This fella should get out more
In reply to UKC Articles:

I enjoyed it. Its a climber climbing......!


Chris
GuyVG - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: really good, this and the himalaya bit on a recent reel rock tour dvd have killed off any desire to do that stuff, type 3 fun. Some of the comments above are very 'laddy' which is a shame
thommi - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to bigdan050: Steve house should get out more?! Hahaha! Very funny, I can only assume you're joking...
I'll say what I said on the other thread and that is that I thought it was lovely. Lovely climbing and nice quotes (they are not all his own). It is at the end of the day a short piece made by a budding young film maker remember. Quite a calibre of 'helpers' involved as well.
People need to be a bit more positive. Twight and house have climbed a bit together in the 90s, but I don't think their views could be seen as that similar.
Gouranga. :-)
Oceanic - on 28 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

I don't think I would have guessed that it was filmed on a Cannon EOS if I hadn't already known.

chubbs2 - on 29 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

"My deepest fear is that I'm not worthy of.....the Big Jim Breakfast at Pete's Eats"

"When you've given eveything , what do you have left....usually a bit of fried bread and a few mushrooms"
tallsop on 29 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

Well that's five and a half minutes of my life ill never get back. Load of shit.
torquil on 29 Jun 2012
Its really a 5 minute advert for the Canon 1dx, the 3 behind-the-scenes films are quite telling I thought.

You can also watch the photographer/filmmaker giving a Speedlight tutorial whilst shooting Steve House, or if you want he'll show you how simple it is to photograph skiers in bad light (providing of course you have a few thousand pounds worth of Canon kit, two assistants, some pro skiers and a closed off snow park).

I wonder too how much say SH had about being on a hidden top-rope?

John1923 - on 29 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

For me rock climbing became a behavioural addiction. It started out as hanging out with mates, then slowly I started using the high from climbing to make up for other shortfalls in my life. Gradually I had to go further and further to get the same kick.

Danger addiction is as powerful as gambling or sex addiction; both of which can ruin people's lives.

The vast majority of climbers are healthy, and doing it for fun. However some people have a problem, and often we idolize these people, because they get very good. While many people can solo or climb hard trad while remaining healthy, I can't. So I just boulder and do a bit of sport climbing.

I think this is a beautiful video, and wish the author luck in finding genuine fulfilment.




Maken - on 29 Jun 2012
In reply to tallsop: Hahaha he needs to get to Ramshaw!
Tom Last - on 30 Jun 2012
In reply to Triangle4321:
> (In reply to tallsop) Hahaha he needs to get to Ramshaw!

The great leveller!
Ben Sharp - on 30 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles: I think us Brits just find it hard to empathise with the American "I just stared death in the face" kind of attitude. There's some cool climbing shots there but ukc seems to prefer a slightly more modest, understated voice over.

Personally if they'd just filmed the guy soloing that route for 5 minutes and left out the cheesy soundtrack and self-indulgent philosophising it would have been a really gripping climbing video. Watching someone solo steep ice is pretty scary, edge of your seat stuff, they managed to completely avoid catching any of that in the film.

Ben
pneame on 30 Jun 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:
Enjoyed that. Moody photography, verbal overlay perhaps a little over the top but still poignant. Great scenery.
And the "how it was done" vids were interesting, giving an insight into the thought processes of the film-making craft.
4.5/5 stars
thomm - on 02 Jul 2012
I enjoyed it. The shots were great, the lack of music was refreshing. The script was good in parts. I think the unfavourable responses are interesting too..
plyometrics - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

I think this would have been far more engaging had the voice over been recorded by a very irritated, small time Chinese business man.
ads.ukclimbing.com
GrahamD - on 02 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC Articles:

I thought it was good - nowhere near as self indulgent as I had expected from the comments up thread. I especially liked the commentary right at the end.

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