/ NEWSFLASH: Houseman and Bullock - Slovak Direct
"Slovak Direct DONE! 4 days of nearly constant snow, a 27hr push, 16hr unplanned.. What an amazing route! WOW!"
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67229
Fine work chaps!
Brilliant! Glad to hear they're safe.
Big man ting!
If everyone will forgive my ignorance, what is it that makes retreat impossible beyond 1000m?
Well done chaps.
I do remember Fowler being very impressed with his partner Pat Littlejohn getting them down many abseils on Thangboche (?) without leaving anything behind using the self recovering ice screw trick. I think Mick had always thought (perhaps like lots of us) that it was one of those nice ideas in a instruction book but that nobody really does.
When you say "self recovering ice screw trick", are you referring to the abalakov thread again?
Really impressive.Well done you two.
Are we missing some banter imbetween or is the "cock" comment above truly offensive from a jealous fellow climber?
The Jesse and Mark video is great too.It really inspires me to go and do something in the future, not that it would be that tough a project that I would do.I have done Denali by the easy route (west buttress)and found it strenuous but not technical enough.So maybe I should go back sometime and try something imbetween in difficulty.I think that I would like to do something like the Sultana Ridge on the other side too.
Have a read of this, it explains all!
Presumably if done right it's better than it sounds but it still sounds dodgy!
Good effort. It'll be interesting to get more details on this. I was reading about the route's history a while back: 11 days for the first ascent, 8 days for the second, 2 and a half for the third (to 200 feet short of the summit), 3 days for the fourth (part of an enchainment) and 80 hours for the fifth ascent.
The fourth ascent stood out for me. Climbed by the super-talented Giri Giri boys, it was enchained with the Isis Face (another Alaskan Grade 6) over a continuous 8 days. Katsutaka Yokoyama’s compelling and poignant account, "Pachinko on Denali", is worth reading. It not only details the link-up but sheds light on the Japanese approach to enchaining routes, and refers to the climbers' previous Alaskan experiences, which includes matter-of-fact repeats of Mt Hunter's Deprivation and the Denali Diamond.
No, its a way of rigging the ice screw such that the act of pulling down the rope unscrews it.
I'm sat in the pub with Nick Bullock, and he wants to know where the comment of ''he's an elitist cock'' has gone! He's quite upset that he's been called elitist, if not, an old elitist cock!
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