/ Best S/HS's in North Wales.
Looking to get inspired and motivated and create a wishlists/tick list for myself of routes to do in North Wales. To accommodate my partner as well as myself I'll be sticking in the S 4a - HS 4b area.
I'd be really grateful for suggestions of routes in that grade that are really worth doing, for whatever reason;
Adventure, technically nice moves, exposure etc whatever it might be, just the best routes you've done at that grade!
Much appreciated and thanks in advance..
Crackstone Rib, Carrey Wastad
Creagh Dhu Wall, Tremadog
Poor Man's Peutery, Tremadog
Are the ones that spring to mind immediately. Although I think perhaps the best day in Snowdonia to be had at that grade would be to go in Llyn Idwal and do Tennis Shoe (HS) on Idwal slabs, followed by Lazurus (S 4a), Groove Above (S 4b) and finally, if you feel up top it going over to do the Grey Slab (VS 4b). The final pitch of Grey Slab while technically easy is a little necky though.
I've done the link up you mentioned, like you say a wonderful day. Not done grey slab as yet though? People seem to think it's bold and 4c...
> Crackstone Rib, Carrey Wastad
> Creagh Dhu Wall, Tremadog
> Poor Man's Peutery, Tremadog
> Are the ones that spring to mind immediately. Although I think perhaps the best day in Snowdonia to be had at that grade would be to go in Llyn Idwal and do Tennis Shoe (HS) on Idwal slabs, followed by Lazurus (S 4a), Groove Above (S 4b) and finally, if you feel up top it going over to do the Grey Slab (VS 4b). The final pitch of Grey Slab while technically easy is a little necky though.
Aye, I'd agree with all of the above.
P.M.P has a scrappy first pitch but the rest of the route is quality, some nice exposure stepping out on to the nose especially.
Tennis Shoe is a great route, probably my favourite in the Ogwen area anyhow. If you don't fancy following it up with Grey Slab you could do Central Arete Direct instead, a 6 pitch vdiff which has some interesting moments to it as well.
I'd say bold, yes, 4c, no. Just think of the classic rock picture of the chap in big boots and a pipe stood on the top slab looking very comfortable and you'll stroll up it.
We did the slabby arete to the left as a first pitch. Good combo.
Any thoughts on direct route on glyder fawr/fach HS 4b? Pinnacle wall on craig yr ysfa S 4a?
The absolute top of my to do list is Main Wall, have been told it`s good
Personally I don't think the moves were 4c, but it is bold, and its a long way up the mountain so it certainly warrants the VS grade for those reasons.
It's *ace*! We did it on a glorious day a few years ago, the sort where the whole of North Wales is bathed in sunshine... apart from that route. It was 'fresh'.
It even has a spot of exposure for you :-)
It is good. feels quite serious too.
How about one of the long routes on Llewid (sp)?
Valerie's rib at tremadoc feels pretty serious for the grade.
Direct on the Mot.
VS with a 5b move at the start of the top pitch
Kirkus's Climb Direct, Bent, Slack and Slant - Moelwynion
Good routes on Clogwyn yr Oen
P.S Anyone done Zig Zag at Clogwyn Y Tarw (Gribbin) , Get's S 4a on here but HS 4b i my guide, is the horrid shiny V grove pitch well protected? I'm not the greatest chimney climber but somehow it makes me want to do them? Anyone done it..
Yep, got Direct route on Glyder fach on the list :)
Eh? Was v diff when one did it a while ago..:). Most enjoyable.
I think Grey Slab is HS 4b with modern small pro. It can weep so you need a good day for that grade.
Red wall is Severe at least not sure about 4b though. When damp it often more like HS 4a!
> Any thoughts on direct route on glyder fawr/fach HS 4b? Pinnacle wall on craig yr ysfa S 4a?
Pinnacle Wall is good, great exposure! Often done after climbing Mur y Niwl which is pretty stiff VS
It's fairly easy to descend from the top and traverse in from the right (facing in); which is, I believe, the way Kirkus did it originally.
A few more:
Slab Climb Right Hand (Cloggy far west)
Jacobs Media (Craig aderyn)
Red Slab Central Route (Carnedd y Filiast)
Pinnacle wall (Craig yr ysfa)
Mossy Slab (Tryfan Fach)
Wall Climb; Chimney Climb; 2 Pitch Route; 5 Pitch Route; Marble Slab (Bochlyd)
Keep them coming!!
> Kirkus's Climb Direct, Bent, Slack and Slant - Moelwynion
> Good routes on Clogwyn yr Oen
I would also add White Streak (bold) and Honeysuckle Corner, Craig yr Wrysgan. A really good HS combination. I also like Asahel (S) on Craig y Clipiau.
Isn't Slant VS?
If you're in the moelwyns you will enjoy Asahel (S) on Craig y Clipiau and if your feeling bold do the eagle finish.
Central arÍte in idwal offers a long first pitch of steady climbing with spaced gear; the upper pitches are not difficult but require caution to avoid sending loose stuff down onto anyone below.
Dives/Better Things is a good HS on Dinas Cromlech that has not been mentioned yet.
If you fancy something out of the way do the South Ridge of Rhinog Fach (S). The climbing is very scrappy with only one decent pitch but the line is good, it's in a lovely location, finishes almost on the summit and the views of the welsh coast are stunning.
Main Wall HS 4b *** Cyrn Las
Dives/Better Things HS 4b *** Dinas Cromlech
Direct Route HS *** Glyder Fach
Manx Wall HS 4b *** Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder
Christmas Curry/Micah Eliminate HS 4a *** Craig Bwlch y Moch
Creagh Dhu Wall HS 4b *** Craig y Castell
The White Streak/Honeysuckle Corner HS 4a,4b ** Craig Yr Wrysgan
The Cracks HS 4c *** Dinas Mot
Pinnacle Wall HS ** Craig Yr Ysfa
I personally also really rated Jingling Wall HS 4b *** on Clogwyn Cyrau above Betwys y Coed, Conwy Corner S *** also looks good there.
I did white streak and the corner last year, really great route!! Also love the cracks.
Jingling Wall is one of the best HSs I've done for a while
Adam Rib, Craig Cwm Du, a hidden gem
The stand outs for me were Creag Dhu Wall and Direct Route on Glyder Fach. The latter a bit chossy in places but top pitches are superb. The combo on the slabs is a great day though didn't rate Tennis Shoe as highly as Hope IMO.
Personally I think the last pitch is udgy (but well-protected)4c.
Great pitch but not enough of it and too far a walk to just do on it's own. Far better saved as a finish to Mur Y Niwl (top-end VS) when you're ready for that.
These routes will be with my old man anyway, so HS 4b is as much as he's up to enjoying.
Poor Man's Peuterey has a great top two pitches but the first pitch isn't nice, it's mucky. No one's mentioned Christmas Curry either whilst you're at Tremadog.
I thought Jingling Wall was spot on HS 4b. The problem is that steady well protected 4b has often been given VS which I think distorts peoples view of the grade. In any case its a superb little route and much more sheltered than many of the other options.
If you are in the area, there is a really nice little *** S corner who's name escapes me on the buttress just to the right.
> If you are in the area, there is a really nice little *** S corner who's name escapes me on the buttress just to the right.
Just checked the guidebook and the route you mention may be Conwy corner on the Conwy buttress. 18 m 3 star severe. Book says a 'well protected classic'.
I still think the first pitch of Tennis Shoe is scary due to polish and it has a hard move on the top pitch with less pro than I wanted and that short climbers can find deperate. For Grey Slab from reputation I was expecting bold tricky climbing but found relatively easy angled moves on rough rock with good half rests and relatively good gear with small wires and microcams between more spaced standard gear. I think they are the same grade for me and Grey Slab may be easier for the short. Grey Slab is more sustained but it is also a lot shorter. Bear in mind a lot of people skip the last pitch of Tennis Shoe and claim the route. Some skip the start pitch and the finish! Both routes are lovely.
Another link up that used to be recommended is Cracks, Slow Ledge, Main Wall and Gambit. At the time Slow Ledge was S now I think its VS, grading for the scary conditions often encountered (like climbing on teflon sometimes!). Gambit was VD but had 4a climbing to get going and a S 4b corner. In good conditions the link up all felt much the same difficulty to me: even the infamous Cracks finish was piss for those used to grit or font mantels on boulder problems (hard 4b at most for me).
I had a green Alien and a blue Alien both slightly smaller than that.
Thanks for that-love this sort of thread for giving me info about crags I haven't previously thought about. I'll make sure my next welsh trip heads straight for this one.
Anyone done Zig Zag at Clogwyn Y Tarw (Gribbin) , Get's S 4a on here but HS 4b i my guide, is the horrid shiny V grove pitch well protected? I'm not the greatest chimney climber but somehow it makes me want to do them? Anyone done it..
It is definitely more HS than S, I thought it was a pretty good route and there is decent gear as far as I remember, the rock in the groove/chimney is quite smooth, but I don't recall that making it especially hard. Fair at HS 4b.
Only just seen this thread. The best Ive done is Pinnacle Wall, Craig Yr Ysfa. the only one I can contemplate rivalling it is Main Wall.
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