UKC

Right, I've been bouldering twice a week for around 6 weeks now and really enjoy it. Im climbing at around a V1. But im getting frustrated, as some V1 routes I just cannot do , fellow climbers old,young,very old , very young do these routes with ease. Ive been told its a technique thing so I went out and bought the self coached climber ( which is more a physics text book than a climbing book). Can any one suggest some easier reading or do i purely need lessons???

Thanks BBS

In reply to bigbadsquare: I'd say just get out climbing and watch how other people do problems and you'll quickly start to build up your technique.

In reply to bigbadsquare:

I found the DVD that came with the Self Coached Climber to be more helpful than the book.

In reply to bigbadsquare: The Neil Gresham Masterclass Part 1 DVD is great for technique on steep routes, and applies to a lot of boulder problems too.

Mathew.

In reply to bigbadsquare: Technique is a large part of climbing though it won't necessarily get you up anything at your limit if you don't have the necessary strength to hold on to that crucial sloper for instance.
Stamina training works well to improve overall performance and you can do this through dead-hangs on holds you can comfortably hold for a few seconds and gradually increase the time you hold by a second or so until you can comfortably hold it for a 30s - 1 minute.

In reply to bigbadsquare:

I think the videos on here and youtube alike are a great training tool in themselves. Watch how the pro's do it while sat at home with a beer or whatever, take note of body positions as much as the movements themselves. For me (someone may well tell me I'm full of s**t) the main thing when bouldering is controlling your centre of gravity. Allowing a leg to dangle free rather than on an awkward hold will often feel more natural and allow for better movement.

In reply to bigbadsquare:
Well, for a start 6 weeks is a very short period when it comes to moving up grades and twice a week not that intense. So don't be disheartened.

Watch other boulderers, especially the good ones when they are warming up on the easier problems.

What's your body build? I see a lot of people with upper body strength ignoring their foot placement, simply trying to haul themselves up a problem with legs kicking about until they land somewhere. Think about where your feet will go as well as your hands.

Repeat those routes at the edge of your ability and try to vary the types of holds you use (even the slopers which few peopel like). If there are routes you find easish, again repeat to build up stamina. Maybe try skipping some of the holds to vary the difficulty?

Neil Gresham DVD 1 will get you going nicely

In reply to Flinticus:

Thanks Flinticus, im 6ft and 12 st so not overly large but not very strong either. The strength v technique argument has no meaning to me yet as i have neither

I do watch the better guys warming up and watch in envy as the crawl spider man like up walls as easy as i could on the ground.

i think i may have become fixed on the few V1 routes that i have not done, I like the idea od repeatedly doing the ones i can, and as you say 6 weeks is not too long.

maybe some lessons in the future.

BBB

In reply to bigbadsquare:

Just keep at it strength and technique will develop as you watch and learn - work on foot work, thats the best advice I can give you

In reply to bigbadsquare: Technique will come with time. Climb with a bunch of different people if you want different influences, or, if you have one partner who makes you particularly motivated/pushes you/makes you think about what you're doing wrong when you come off, then climb with them lots! 6 weeks is a very short space of time! I think I might've done 2 V1s within my first 6 weeks. Now, 2 years later, I've done only 2 V6s outdoors, and maybe one V7/8 indoors. Progress comes; give it time!

In reply to bigbadsquare: I've prooved already today (on this forum) I have no clue about what grade I'm climbing but I'm about 4 months into bouldering and for me the crucial part of improving is climbing with other climbers that are better than you. My initial peer group haven't kept up the training like me and i find myself not improving but then I'll meet a new climber and they will push me to new things, in one session with a more experienced climber I can nail 4-5 new projects whereas when I'm by myself I seem to get one extra move on an old problem. I would say watch women climb, my lady friend is more a sports route climber but she hits the bouldering hard and watching her has improved my form.

In reply to bigbadsquare:

You have only just started climbing so don't worry, the more you climb the better you will be and your technique will improve. Practise makes perfect!

In reply to bigbadsquare: Do they do coaching sessions where you climb? A couple of seaaions with someone telling you were you are going wrong worked alot better for me thatn trying to read it in a book. This also helps with stranght as you are climbing more