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Wanting to try Bouldering-Help and tips appreciated

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Thevicar 11 Jul 2012
Hi all,

I am thinking about giving bouldering a go. I like the fact you do not need to fork out too much money to do it. I am a caver also and this can be very exspensive. So I do have some climbing ability.
I live in Yeovil, in Somerset and I have seen on various websites that Ham Hill has some problems. I was wondering if anybody had any routes or photos of these problems. Or should I just turn up and give it a go? I just thought that if I had something to look at before I go, it would give me a good starting point. Apparantly they are mostly a 5b?? Is that hard for a beginner? I also have Portland down the road too. Can you just turn up and start climbing, do you need permission etc?
Lastly any books that you can recommend for a newbie?
Thanks in advance
Lee
 Jon Stewart 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Thevicar:

I just looked up Ham Hill on the UKC database - it's not bouldering!

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1576

You'll need a rope there by the looks of things, so get yourself down to Portland which does have some bouldering.

Just turn up. A mat, boots, chalk and a guidebook/topo are what you need (not all strictly necessary, but all make it more fun). There really isn't a lot to it, just play on the rocks, seeing what you can get up and what you can't. You'll want to start on the easiest stuff, working up the bouldering grades tends to take a bit of time. The only book I'd recommend is one that shows you where the rocks are and what the problems are like.
Thevicar 11 Jul 2012
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=504128

Apologies I just went by this previous post. So I'm not going to look too strange just turning up in Portland and start climbing? Just used to caving where you ask permission etc before you do anything. Is it all public access then?
 Jon Stewart 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Thevicar: Apart from a few places which are banned for various reasons or some Southern Sandstone where I believe you have to pay (WTF!), yes, it's all public access. Thanks to the BMC, who do a great job.
Thevicar 11 Jul 2012
Really appreciate your time. I dont suppose you know if its the main quarry or elsewhere on the island?
 robin mueller 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> (In reply to Thevicar)
>
> I just looked up Ham Hill on the UKC database - it's not bouldering!
>

But the UKC page also says "There are also a few easy obvious boulder problems around the base of the quarry."

So it might be worth having a look. Portland will probably be better, but as this is your local, why not check it out...
Thevicar 11 Jul 2012
I might go for a cycle down there tomorrow and see whats what and report back. Depends on the weather. I presume you can still climb in the rain. I climb in wet caves??
 robin mueller 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Thevicar:

Rain's not good - it makes the rock hard to hold on to. Some rock types are also fragile when wet.

Figuring out what crags are likely to stay dry or dry quickly in damp summer weather is always a challenge!
Thevicar 11 Jul 2012
Thanks for that. Seems like a nice morning so might go for it. Plus Nobody will be about at 6am so I shouldn't look too daft. What grading is a 5b?? Is that pretty difficult though??
 robin mueller 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Thevicar:

5b is tricky for most beginners, but you'll probably be able to find more amenable stuff. Just pick a piece of rock that looks inviting, you'll soon find out if you need a harder or easier challenge.

From the looks of it, Ham Hill isn't the perfect bouldering venue (it's more of a routes/soloing spot), but if you are happy to mess around and find your own challenges, there's no reason you can't have fun.
Thevicar 11 Jul 2012
Well I'll give it a bash and see how I get on. Then plan a trip down to Portland and see what its all about. I just like the idea of climbing without all the money. What is defined as bouldering and what is free soloing?
 Jon Stewart 11 Jul 2012
In reply to robin mueller:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
> [...]
>
> But the UKC page also says "There are also a few easy obvious boulder problems around the base of the quarry."

Oh yeah, didn't get that far.

> So it might be worth having a look.

Possibly! "Ham stone"...?
 JLS 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Thevicar:

>"What is defined as bouldering and what is free soloing?"

5m high is around the limit of bouldering for most people. Above that is pretty highball and you'd want to be pretty sure you were not going to fall off from the top.

Apparently 15m is the height at which death becomes very likely. Staying below that you may survive which broken bones...
 mattc 11 Jul 2012
In reply to Thevicar: Portlands good the cuttings is a good area to try but is a little confuseing. Get a guide book I managed for about a year with out and as soon as I brought it I was annoyed I hadn't sooner. The climbers club for Portland is good.
 dale1968 12 Jul 2012
In reply to Jon Stewart: you have not been there AS I GO bouldering there, it may not be in a data base but its there!
 dale1968 12 Jul 2012
In reply to Thevicar: If you want to boulder at ham hill get in touch with me and I will show you all the problems that I know, I have a mat, I am free this morning, dale
Thevicar 12 Jul 2012
Hi Dale, thanks for the offer. Apologies as I have only just logged on being nearly midday. Are you based around Yeovil?
 dale1968 12 Jul 2012
In reply to Thevicar: merriott, so about 5 miles from ham hill
 devilesslover 02 Aug 2012
In reply to dale1968: Hi guys, also live local and climb at Ham Hill a bit. There are 3 or 4 very obvious deceant bouldering problems at Ham Hill in the area to the absolute left (the "cave")... Happy to show some that I've done but I expect you should know them. Also anyone who's up for helping me out, please give me a shout if you have a map of routes and names... I can't work out which climb is which :S

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