UKC

Answer the question.

In reply to Phil Layton:

And why?

In reply to Phil Layton: Having never climbed in the UK I guess I shouldn't post a response, but based on all the threads on here about instructors hogging routes, queuing for the good routes, etc I'd say NZ. Part of the reason I climb is to get away from all the people.

In reply to Phil Layton:

Never climbed in NZ, but my NZ mate who has climbed extensively in both would say the UK, no question, in fact hardly worth discussing. Assuming you're after pure rock climbing rather than mountaineering, of course.

jcm

In reply to Phil Layton:

UK, no hesitation. Although areas such as Castle Hill is beautiful, there just isn't the quantity of volume of climbing in NZ! At least not so accessibly. And in terms of guide books there isn't the coverage either - I'm sure there is plenty of climbing in the mountains but it doesnt have the same level of coverage as the UK does.

However, in terms of how busy it is, and getting away from other people, NZ is better if you like a quiet day on the crags.

I'd expect there are more 3 Star climbs within 2 hours of my house in Sheffield that there are in the whole of NZ.

I had a full year in NZ and loved it. By the end I had done well over half of all the routes I was interested in. There is some awesome and unique stuff like deep water bouldering at Paynes, and Castle Hill, but just not enough of it.

In reply to Phil Layton:

Please....!

UK. Not a shadow of a doubt in my mind. The breadth of rock types, the quality of the rocks, the variety of the holds ensuing, the extraordinary history of british trad, and the 'scene' in general is completely different. Grit, gneiss, slate, chalk, sandstone... vs biscuit in NZ

On the other hand I'm not sure any climber in NZ has ever queued. For anything.

If the question is about alpine climbing however, NZ wins by a country mile.

b (in NZ)

In reply to Phil Layton:

I've spent some time in NZ, amazing place. NZ has things the UK doesn't, like wild adventures on Alpine giants.

But in terms of cragging, NZ is hopelessly outgunned by several orders of magnitude. Dan Arkle's statement is bang on, Derbyshire has more cragging and better cragging than NZ, no question.

I've been to over 70 countries and climbed in many of them and I've not yet seen anywhere better than the UK for variety.

In reply to shaymarriott:


Getting away from crowds is easy in the UK if you're willing to walk half an hour or more. Just in the Peak there are dozens of crags with usually not a soul in sight.

In reply to Phil Layton:

Another vote for UK.

Even in Rock Deluxe, one of two selective guides to the South Island, which features about twenty or so crags - well some of the crags might not even make a selective local guide in the UK.

That said, there is World class bouldering at Castle/Flock Hill, good sport at Paynes Ford and some decent stuff around Wanaka. I haven't climbed in The Darrens which look excellent and the mountaineering is outstanding.

Who knows, in another 50 years with a lot of development, NZ rock climbing could be up there with the UK, but at the moment it's nowhere close.

Great place though, with some great climbing and worth taking your gear for those planning a visit.

In reply to Phil Layton: I have no idea about NZ but I'd imagine it's kind of like Norway. The volume of rock climbing and available is insane but there are very few crags that have been explored and developed.

So, if you love exploring and first ascents it's probably ideal. Otherwise frustrating.

In reply to BruceWee: My very limited experience of Norway was of generally good rock with areas of loose stuff. Very old, heavily weathered and hence quite stable rock. Trolltind admittedly being an exception I gather!

NZ rock by comparison is often adolescent and capricious in geological terms and could do with a few milennia to lose the worst of the loose bits and calm the **** down.

Local crags down here (Long Beach, Mihiwaka) are discussed in the very excellent Dunedin Rock guide and the climbnz.org.nz site

http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/south-island/otago/dunedin/otago-pennisula/long-be...

Gives a taster of the area. It's not Stanage by any means.

On the other hand, I'm getting quite excited at the look of Mt Somers:
http://climbnz.org.nz/nz/si/canterbury/inland-canterbury/mt-somers

b

In reply to Dan Arkle:

To be fair though, with a few exceptions, most 3* lines on grit or peak lime are not 3* on a world scale, its all relative to the rock around the peak. Don't get me wrong, I like the Peak, but stars there are awarded for utter shite as we'll climb on almost anything in the UK.

In reply to Dan Arkle:


To be fair though, with a few exceptions, most 3* lines on grit or peak lime are not 3* on a world scale, its all relative to the rock around the peak. Don't get me wrong, I like the Peak, but stars there are awarded for utter shite as we'll climb on almost anything in the UK.

In reply to Phil Layton: A more interesting question:

UK versus France

UK versus Spain

In reply to Phil Layton:

Or the U.S vs anywhere else in the world?

But i guess they have an unfair advantage due to size. I reckon the u.k is easily home to the most overated climbing :P

In reply to Kemics:

I agree, except for sea cliff climbing. I've not found anywhere that has the quality or variety that we have in that department.

As for everything else, the Cape has it all bigger, better and with the weather to actually make use of it!

In reply to Kemics: Funny. On the Arch Climbing website they list "world class bouldering " sites. They include the Isle of Portland alongside Font etc, but nothing in the US? No Hueco, no Bishop, nothing.

In reply to snoop6060:

That's true of any starred system for local guidebooks, stars are awarded relative to the venue, how else could you do it?

In reply to Kemics:

Smiley or not, maybe you should travel a bit more before making statements like that. You live in one of the best countries in the world to climb in, no question.

In reply to Phil Layton:
Yet another vote for UK... I have lived in NZ, I absolutely love the country, but the rock climbing is pretty limited. A good chunk of the rock there is choss, even in some of the 'popular' (in NZ terms), newly developed crags are still dropping bits all over the place. The Darrens is meant to be amazing for alpine granite, but it rains a LOT (hence why I never made it...) and is far from a cragging day. Castle Hill I'm sure is amazing (I'm not a boulderer), it is an incredible place to visit even if you're not a climber. Payne's Ford is ok. Alpine rock is generally very chossy.
The UK has quality rock within relatively short drives from wherever (distances in NZ are deceptive!), a huge variety, much more trad (if that's what you're into), more of a scene.
However, NZ is, as others have said, fantastic for getting away from the crowds, the mountaineering is amazing, and it a very beautiful country with some very friendly people.

In reply to Phil Layton: Thanks for all the info - seems I'm living in the best place afterall.