/ NEWS: VIDEO: Edu Marin - 8c Onsight
As well as onsighting four 8cs, Edu has redpointed many hard routes including an early repeat of the famous 9a+ La Rambla, Siurana back in 2006.
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I'm not normally one to comment on styles of ascent, ethics etc. I'll happily work a route into submission on a toprope before going for a redpoint.
But this video really made me think...he seems to know the moves really well when talking about them before setting off. Can that really be an "onsight"?
He had onsighted it a few weeks earlier and so returned to film it.
I like it. Plus, he uses a figure of eight to tie in, that's what I like to see.
it all makes sense now. that'll teach me to open my mouth early on a Monday morning.
Towards the end I was thinking that jumping off would be a fun way to descend - awesome.
gave me a sense (albeit an armchair one) of what's needed for an 8c.
Yeh, I'm impressed. Think he needs to work on his clipping technique though ... ;)
Guilty as charged I'm afraid. BUT I did watch this and was blown away. Redpointing such a route is an achievement in it's self but to onsight it!! This re-affirms that I need to get out and try my hand at more sport climbing!
As unfamiliar with hard sport climbs (or hard climbs in general) as I am, can I ask why he had 2 draws with him for most of the route when there were already all he needed in situ?
Other than for continuity... :-P
Did the quickdraws have large, sponsor logos on them by any chance?
Quickdraws are just generally useful for attaching yourself to things. Clipping direct into bolts, clipping into the chains to sort out the lower off, etc. In this context they are probably either for stripping the roof or he just forgot to take them off his harness.
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