/ NEWS: VIDEO: Edu Marin - 8c Onsight

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UKC News - on 23 Jul 2012
Edu Marin 8c Onsight, 5 kbIn this video we see super strong Spanish climber Edu Marin in action on Pengim Penjam 8c.

As well as onsighting four 8cs, Edu has redpointed many hard routes including an early repeat of the famous 9a+ La Rambla, Siurana back in 2006.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67284

tom290483 - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News:

I'm not normally one to comment on styles of ascent, ethics etc. I'll happily work a route into submission on a toprope before going for a redpoint.

But this video really made me think...he seems to know the moves really well when talking about them before setting off. Can that really be an "onsight"?
Jiduvah - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to tom290483: its not and never claims to be
andi turner - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to tom290483:

He had onsighted it a few weeks earlier and so returned to film it.

I like it. Plus, he uses a figure of eight to tie in, that's what I like to see.
tom290483 - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to andi turner:

it all makes sense now. that'll teach me to open my mouth early on a Monday morning.
Jimbo C - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Towards the end I was thinking that jumping off would be a fun way to descend - awesome.
jules699 - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News: Amazing stuff - what power! Not sure about the decent method tho...nutta! (cant be good for the rope either...)
Sean_J - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to jules699: Sponsored heroes get free ropes. If I got free ropes i'd be doing that as well :)
ChrisBrooke - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News: People often talk about sport routes not being that inspiring, but I thought this was amazing! It was really well filmed, you got a good sense of how goddam hard and tiring it must be and the moves looked incredible. It made me want to climb it (although by the looks of it I might have to work on my guns a bit). Nice to see (hear) someone really trying. The prospect of making those moves - one energy sapping, overhanging, 3D pump-fest after another - gave me a sense (albeit an armchair one) of what's needed for an 8c.

Thumbs up.
_MJC_ - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to ChrisBrooke:
gave me a sense (albeit an armchair one) of what's needed for an 8c.
>
Yeah not something you get a lot in videos.

Skyfall - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Yeh, I'm impressed. Think he needs to work on his clipping technique though ... ;)
Greedotheferret - on 23 Jul 2012
In reply to ChrisBrooke:
> (In reply to UKC News) People often talk about sport routes not being that inspiring.

Guilty as charged I'm afraid. BUT I did watch this and was blown away. Redpointing such a route is an achievement in it's self but to onsight it!! This re-affirms that I need to get out and try my hand at more sport climbing!

Thoms6974 - on 24 Jul 2012
In reply to UKC News:

As unfamiliar with hard sport climbs (or hard climbs in general) as I am, can I ask why he had 2 draws with him for most of the route when there were already all he needed in situ?

Other than for continuity... :-P
jules699 - on 24 Jul 2012
In reply to Sean_J: Good point!
cha1n on 24 Jul 2012
In reply to Thoms6974:

Did the quickdraws have large, sponsor logos on them by any chance?
ads.ukclimbing.com
Quiddity - on 24 Jul 2012
In reply to Thoms6974:

cool video!

> As unfamiliar with hard sport climbs (or hard climbs in general) as I am, can I ask why he had 2 draws with him for most of the route when there were already all he needed in situ?

Quickdraws are just generally useful for attaching yourself to things. Clipping direct into bolts, clipping into the chains to sort out the lower off, etc. In this context they are probably either for stripping the roof or he just forgot to take them off his harness.

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