Walls & Training forum

View latest messages in My Forums
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.

Topic - Another dodgy elbow thread - bicep tendon (I think)

Jon Stewart - on 24 Aug 2012
OK, so like a lot people, I've got a dodgy elbow. It's not tennis nor golfers (if I understand them right), it's right in the middle of the front (crease) of the elbow, I think coming from the obvious thick bicep tendon.

Most of the advice around deals with tennis and golfers, such as this (which I understand to be the classic of the genre): http://www.athlon.com.au/articles/r&i_dodgyelbow.pdf

It hurts mainly after climbing (bouldering at bloody Almscliffe particularly...haven't they heard of footholds round there?) when doing stuff like picking up the kettle - it's not too bad while climbing. It's been like this for a few months now, but it's worse now the weather's so awful that the only climbing I'm doing is short boulder sessions, which figures.

Currently, I'm doing a couple of sets of push-ups a day and playing aimlessly with the Powerball. Stretching it a bit too. All of which seems to help, but of course if I go to Almscliffe again I'm back at square one. Thing is, when I don't have a partner and it's not raining, I don't want to rest from climbing and get sh!t and weak, because there's still a chance of getting a decent trad route or two done this year (although I'm not holding my breath).

There's got to be a compromise that'll allow me to keep climbing - it's never excruciating, so I don't think there's major damage done (although I think stuff like Virgin Traverse could change that!). It's a shame there's no crags I consider suitable for soloing round here, as I think that my old Stanage circuit of VS-E1s was really good for keeping in shape without putting the body under stress.

Any comments or advice welcome...I'm expecting "stop climbing" and "read this [article posted above]". What I'd really like is people's experience of this or similar injuries. Ta.
... not showing 6 replies to this topic ...
Register as a New User or login to gain full access to the forums. Registration is quick and completely free.
If you are definitely logged on, press Ctrl+F5 keys to reload this page [read more]

Unregistered users can only read messages in the most recent topics.

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.

My Forums