/ NEWS: Huge New Route on Great Trango
The route, now called Out of Reality is 1500m long, graded WI6 M7 A3 VIII and took five days to climb.
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67424
That looks incredible. 5 days alpine style, sleeping in a haulbag....
The report is pretty funny, good reading. http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=5794
I also understood the current ethic in the Greater Ranges that of 'you must reach the summit to claim the route'. Otherwise you've just climbed some difficult new ground.
Do all routes end of summits? Not in alps anyway...
possibly but still hardcore though?
Of course! But if this isn't the established ethic then it shouldn't be reported in this way.
No, not in the Alps. I think there's perhaps still some debate regarding the likes of Alaska for example but in the Greater Ranges my understanding is the accepted ethics are that the summit must be reached.
We were in basecamp while they were on the wall, they were caught up in seriously bad weather and stuck it out for a long time before coming down. Super impressive regardless. I'm sure if the weather was better, they would have continued.
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