/ NEWS: Huge New Route on Great Trango

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UKC News - on 11 Sep 2012
Underneath the steep upper reaches of the new route on Trango, 3 kbSlovakian climber Josef 'Dodo' Kopold and team have added a huge new route to Great Trango, Karakoram, Pakistan.
The route, now called Out of Reality is 1500m long, graded WI6 M7 A3 VIII and took five days to climb.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=67424
owen1988 - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News:

That looks incredible. 5 days alpine style, sleeping in a haulbag....

The report is pretty funny, good reading. http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=5794
lummox - on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News: What a fantastic effort !
Stuart Little on 12 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News: "After five days in NW face we retreat to the base camp without the main summit but with a beautiful and hardcore route." No disrespect to Dodo and his team but must ask if this is a 'route' or 'failed attempt'. Are standards slipping or is it me that should slip down to new standards?
Michael Gordon - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to Stuart Little:

I also understood the current ethic in the Greater Ranges that of 'you must reach the summit to claim the route'. Otherwise you've just climbed some difficult new ground.
Scarab - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to UKC News:

Do all routes end of summits? Not in alps anyway...
French Erick - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to Michael Gordon:
possibly but still hardcore though?
Michael Gordon - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to French Erick:

Of course! But if this isn't the established ethic then it shouldn't be reported in this way.
Michael Gordon - on 13 Sep 2012
In reply to Scarab:

No, not in the Alps. I think there's perhaps still some debate regarding the likes of Alaska for example but in the Greater Ranges my understanding is the accepted ethics are that the summit must be reached.
saclimber2000 - on 15 Sep 2012
In reply to Stuart Little:

We were in basecamp while they were on the wall, they were caught up in seriously bad weather and stuck it out for a long time before coming down. Super impressive regardless. I'm sure if the weather was better, they would have continued.
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wee jamie on 15 Sep 2012
In reply to owen1988: I like their improvised cooking pot after dropping the Jetboil!

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